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If I remember correctly the tubes are filled with apple pulp and it then spins and closes up. Excuse my vagueness but the visit was a few beers ago! If you're in the area I do recommend a visit, if only for the tastings afterwards. :drunk:

If you liked the vats this is the apple press!

Excuse the random stranger but this is a picture taken by me last summer on a tour of Westons, they have loads of these very old oak vats which they use to age their cider in. I wouldn't be at all surprised if this is the source of the malolactic bacteria, what did surprise me was the claim that...

Yes it matters. Filtering beer to remove haze also removes flavour compounds. Using lots of hops can introduce a haze. Hazy beer tastes better!

Your cornie holds 19 litres which is roughly 33 pints, you can account for 25 which leaves you 8 missing. That's enough for quite a noticeable puddle so you can discount a leak. This leaves 3 options. 1. It wasn't full to start with. 2. Someone's been helping themself to your beer. 3. After a...

Not to forget The Handsome Family http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tNz-EiO3BRY

North Norwich

I've gone for phosphoric as it's resultant compounds aren't meant to affect the end taste as much

The one I linked to isn't an STC 1000 even though it looks like one. It heats OR cools and is rated higher than the STC which would be on it's limit running a kettle element.

My probe came from Auberins.com in the U.S. it's liquid tight so no thermowell required, however they're not as cheap as the eBay items.

How many of you have the toaster and the kettle running for 60-90 minutes though? It's my understanding that you're better off running each element from a different ring.

Perhaps "beer flow controller" is a better search term. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/INLINE-BEER-F ... 1c324a8239

Though I use a PID and 2 SSR's myself it's overkill really. However if you decided to use one I'd recommend using a PT100 sensor and compatable PID for improved accuracy at the temperatures we're interested in (k type thermocouples are more suited to higher temps). If I were to do it again I'd...

The easy answer is to find yourself a cheap fridge and knock up a kegerator, then carb up your beers at 12 psi and 11 degrees c for a week, then if you have problems with foaming try a length of 3/16th tubing to balance the flow. 30 psi, warm beer and a party tap isn't going to give you a...

I don't think there's any particular reason for it other than not wanting all that crud in my beer... but I'm a skimmer.

Hi Marc, I'm in Sprowston so not far away. There's a few more on here and Jim's who are not too far away as well.... Plus the Shed Brewers (CBA) who meet up in Norwich every 3 months to drink and talk beer. Any questions just ask. Keith

I'd missed this thread. I, like Orlando am a Shed brewer of East Anglia. I thoroughly enjoy the meetings..... especially the tasting of each others beers! :cheers:

The Wytchwood bottles are great if you have a bench capper, I've found they're very easy to get the labels off.

http://www.murphyhomebrew.com/laboratory-services/water-analysis/prod_90.html

In an ideal world a fridge fitted with temp controller and a tube heater, next is a big bucket of water with a fish tank heater into which you place the fermenter. Less ideal are the fish tank heater in the FV or a brew belt.