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There's a good overview of the system here: https://www.themaltmiller.co.uk/blog/so-you-want-to-start-kegging-your-home-brew/ There are plenty of online suppliers, whose prices are likely to vary. The best gas cylinder to go for will depend upon where you live. I'm in the wilds of SW Scotland...

I definitely would not partially fill a bottle. You don't need to move it around, oxygen in the airspace will diffuse into the beer anyway. I suggest that you either change your recipe to reduce the alcohol content, or build up a stock of 330ml bottles.

I have no qualms about re-pitching yeast with small amounts of hop residue. It's not likely to introduce infection, and the very small amount of residue isn't going to have any perceptible effect on the flavour of the next brew. But I dry-hop by putting the hops in a bag first. If you just...

Either, as it's the same chemical. I use solid, but I imagine that liquid is easier. Mainly because solid needs careful storage - it has a tendency to draw moisture out of the air and then set into a solid mass. Magnesium chloride does this also (so does common salt, sodium chloride, but not...

When I last used a plastic pressure barrel (a very long time ago!) you could get CO₂ cylinders for them that were much larger, and much more economical, than the tiny CO₂ bulbs. They were made by a firm called Hambleton Bard. You first bought a cylinder, including a deposit, and when empty you...

We don't just have mice around the compost bin. We have mice everywhere. OK, these aren't house mice, they are tiny wood mice (we live in a hilly, wooded, moorlandy bit of rural Scotland). As far as I'm concerned, they're welcome to the grains - I still get plenty of compost. The only thing I...

Yep, totally agree. Not only is there a blanket of CO₂ on top of the beer, but the beer itself is fully saturated with CO₂, and at 1.020 it is still fermenting and producing more. Introducing oxygen by dry hopping should not be an issue, especially with pellets.

The beer won't have much CO₂ in it if it's still in the fermentor. By the sounds of it, you intend to serve it from a pressure barrel. This is where it will "condition", meaning that CO₂ will dissolve in the beer and you will perceive it as "fizzy". There are basically 2 ways to do this. The...

I've never used nitrogen, but I suspect that you won't get the same "fizziness" as with pure CO₂ if you're putting in a significant proportion of nitrogen. Think of a can of Draught Guinness as opposed to Guinness Original.

It isn't because it's a kit, this is normal for any beer. How much you get will depend upon how soon you bottle it after fermentation, i.e. how cloudy it is. The more solids there are in suspension, the more there is to settle out on the bottom of the bottle. If you're only getting a little...

Sorry, but this is not correct. Yeast is capable of both aerobic and anaerobic metabolism of sugar. Aerobic fermentation occurs during the first phase of fermentation, where oxygen is believed to contribute to the growth of yeast cells. Once the oxygen is used up, anaerobic fermentation...

If you want to personalise you're brew, without the precise temperature and faff of all-grain, then you certainly can. You will have to boil, though (at least to some extent). The big step with all-grain brewing is mashing the grains, to convert the starches in the malt to sugars. However...

My (hypothetical) view is that it will probably be fine. When it was "thrashed" it was still probably fermenting, and therefore, if anything, supersaturated with CO2. My guess, and it is that, is that the rousing will have released a lot of CO2 from the beer rather than introduced much O2...

Thinking of diluting, I did have a "brilliant" idea a decade or so.... OK several....ago. I figured that I could save a lot of fermentor and plastic barrel space if I brewed double-strength beer. So, instead of my usual 4% or so brew, I doubled up on all the ingredients and made 8%+ beer...

I often dilute my brews, particularly if I'm using a vigorous top-fermenting yeast. It depends upon how much final volume I want, because the maximum fermentor size I can fit in my brew fridge is 25l (to the graduated mark, there is more headspace). If I'm using a yeast that might be lively...

Well, I e-mailed Geterbrewed about the overflow pipe this morning, and to my amazement they were able to relay a reply from Brewolution to me at 2100 this evening. Remarkable! You were right, foxy, the overflow pipe is common to both the 40 and the 70. Brewolution suggested that, if I...

I've recently bought a Brewster Beacon 40 all-in-one brewer from Geterbrewed. For reasons I won't go into here (it's on another thread) I suspected that I might have been supplied with an incorrect part for it. At 1115 this morning, I e-mailed Geterbrewed to ask if this might be the case. I got...

Thanks, foxy. However, I fear this is a bit like the "hot side oxygenation" issue ;) But, even if I lost 3 litres in the boil, that would still leave me with no sparge water allowance. Yes, I could let it drain, and not sparge. But, I like to sparge. I've always sparged. Sparging makes me...

No, no - let's not go there :laugh8: I knew I shouldn't have mentioned it!!! asad.

Thanks, but the ones I watched didn't seem to help much with quite small batches.