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US 04 is a more English strain and very good for hoppy beers, as I said earlier it's the one I used for this beer and it tastes great.......acheers.

M44 is notoriously slow to start, maybe try something else ?? US 04 and US 05 both very good

Squeezing air out is a good idea, as is reducing the air space between the beer and the cap. One other thing, NEVER shake the bottle to ensure the sugar / carb drop is mixed with the beer, no need and that will cause oxidation thumb.

Yes, I've read that works well but I think that's the difference between bottling and kegging.......:)

The only thing I would add is that I really only had oxidation problems when I changed my malt bill to try and match a NEIPA style of beer. Once I added things like oats and wheat the problems occurred. You didn't say what grains you were using so if you were only using say Maris Otter and...

Woooops, that didn't quite work properly................ Anyhow, the siphoning IS the problem, no matter how careful you are. That's why I changed, now the only time any air gets in my bucket is when I add the dry hops and this is never a problem as there is enough Co2 covering the wort. I...

I've been brewing for nearly 5 years now and I'm still tweaking things to try and improve. Here's a few things I've changed, I really only make Pales and IPAs and try to get them as juicy as possible : Never use Crystal. Never use bittering hops. Recently seldom put hops in the boil, if I do...

Spookily my last brew was a Simcoe / Citra Pale Ale and it's turned out lovely. I do BiaB and it was an 11 lt batch...........I've decided to do away with adding ANY hops during the boil so just added 25g of each at flameout. less than 70c, and then dry hopped with 3 days to go, 40g of each. I...

I think it does, underpitching is meant to bring out orange flavours........

Just started my adventures using Voss Kveik from CML...........2nd brew started last Friday, 11 lts BiaB using 2 g of yeast. Started after 30 minutes at 37c and bubbled away very fast until done after 36 hours :) Dropped temperature to about 20c for dry hopping which I did yesterday, plan to...

You'll need a big dollop of dry hops if you want a decent NEIPA, I use a plastic bucket too but find I can add the dry hop by just throwing in hop pellets with about 3 days to go and they'll slowly sink before I bottle. A quick cold crash would help even more but isn't crucial.

Oooohh, be careful to question what topics are in The Snug, you'll get the standard answer 'if you don't like it don't read it'

I've recently gone from 60 min mash and 60 min boil to 45 min for both, noticed NO difference at all, in fact my beers might even be better now...............just my opinion though :)

Badger probably, so dry at the moment they are hungry as they struggle to find worms in the hard soil...........

Oh go on then, you've twisted my arm, please add my name 🍻🍻

Yeah, i'd think so, that's why i'm hoping it'll be flat in a few more days time so I can bottle and prime them with sugar in the normal way........as always, a waiting game.

Cheers for the reply Steve. Tasted the cider and it's fizzy but tastes good, however it tastes more like apple juice than a 5.5% cider at the moment. I'll leave it another week and give it a stir too, hopefully the fizz will go before I bottle. I know with beer that you should never bottle if...

Thought i'd try a CiderWorks kit having never brewed cider before. Following the instructions it says after 6 days check the hydrometer reading which i've done and it's gone from 1.044 to 1.002 so i'd guess it's about done. However the cider is still fizzy so do I just leave it in the fermenter...

As far as I know he's still there and still doing great things acheers.