Search results

Sorry, I shouldn’t jump to assumptions!

My boiler has a hidden element so don’t get this problem. Do get a small amount of residue on the part hiding the element but this easily wipes off with a cloth. I use the boiler to mash in too, so a separate mash tun isn’t always necessary.

I always do 60 minutes as that is what the recipes said when I first started doing all grain. I know some people do no boil so suspect that might be what the “other” one is.

Inspired by this thread, I’ve just made my first batch. Can’t wait to see how it turns out.

Sure, although I use metric measurements. Had the first bottle of this last night, after it has had 2 weeks carbing and it is my best beer yet, really fruity with a nice smooth bitterness. ABV 5.5% IBU 65 4.1 kg pale malt (the .1 was left in the bag so chucked it in - planned to use 4.0kg)...

Good post @dad_of_jon helpful and straight forward explanation! :thumba:

Hi @venkman100 welcome to the forum. What equipment are you using, what size volume? You could make a good IPA just using pale malt and then a couple of hops, one for bittering and one for flavouring / aroma. You could even just use one hop if you wanted to but I prefer to choose a cheaper one...

Me too and I agree it was really good. Came with 100g of hops included, which I didn’t realise at the time was quite a lot.

Great, even more of a bargain! Hopefully won’t take too long to arrive. It will give you time to plan your first brew though. Going electric made a huge difference from using a pot on the cooker, both in terms of time and volume.

@LeeH Malt Miller have it back in stock. I just bought some before posting this!

I usually boil the kettle a couple of times (about 4 litres) to help things along and I think it takes about 15 minutes to get to mash temperature. I dunk sparge at 75 then add the mash liquor back to the boiler and it probably takes another 15-20 minutes to reach a boil. Mine has a bag and I...

I have an Ace boiler which looks very similar to @Rodcx500z’s fullhorn. This looks a good deal, also by Klarstein. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Beer-Keg-Dispenser-Mash-Kettle-Home-Brew-Tap-Drinks-LCD-Touch-Steel-Ferment/232572519168?epid=27026956289&hash=item3626670300:g:YGoAAOSwbA9dJG2F...

Yes, I should have added that I poured boiling water on the fruit and allowed to cool before adding the beer.

Like the Baron I use the Homebrew Company for bulk grains usually adding a few hops and smaller amounts of grain to the order, CML for smaller orders of yeast and hops. Have only used Malt Miller once when they recently had reduced liquid yeast. Had great service from all of them.

I siphoned the beer into an FV that I’d added crushed raspberries too. (I was making three different fruit beers which is why I didn’t add fruit to the primary FV) The raspberry one hardly cleared at all and looked like milkshake BUT I wasn’t able to cold crash it. Tasted good though!

Thanks @Soyyojuli but I don’t have temperature control apart from the FV being surrounded by old cushions to keep as much heat from fermentation in as possible. I’ll let it ferment out more then and remove the cushions before dry hopping.

I know it is tempting to keep checking it but just leave it alone until then! To stop it getting too cold at night you could wrap the bucket in an old blanket.

That would mean it has finished. Did the kit say what the expected final gravity should be? Not many beers go that low! Mine end up between 1.006 and 1.010. Only had a saison that went anywhere near 1.000, ended up at about 1.002 and was quite tart / dry.

Looks good. Very clear and it has got a gold medal! :hat:

They should be the same number. I don’t think I’ve ever looked at the different coloured ranges! The readings should be taken around the same temperature too.