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I've never created a starter anyway as that's just too much effort than I'm prepared for. However I have rehydrated yeast on occasion. Would say that's fine or would just forgo that and throw the second pack straight in.

I tend to use dry yeast because I can't be assed to make a starter for higher gravity beers and the outcomes are pretty good still so I never really gave it much thought. However I've just see the brulosophy pitched a single pouch of Imperial Capri at 19C in wort with an OG of 1.083. Brü It...

23p for 2L can't quibble (although was 18p 5-6months ago) 👍

Sorry I didn't mean that to come across as rude and I apologise if it was worded poorly. However I wasn't ruling out the help or knowledge I can get from this forum, I was saying further to using the community here I'd rather expand my homebrew experience by also meeting like minded people in...

I'd rather have the personal interaction with other local like-minded people.

Hey there, I am looking for either a local homebrew club or a few like-minded individuals who homebrew beer in West Wiltshire or BANES. I want to become more involved in that kind of community and have other individuals to try my beer and pick faults in it and tell me how to improve etc. All...

Just a question to my fellow bottle conditioning crew. For those who cold crash specifically without any real CO² or oxygen prevention methods how do you find your beers turn out and the longevity of said beers. I've made a range of beers from imperial stouts, Belgian Tripels to Triple NEIPAs...

Being an IPA you can get away with 30 mins of 79C below the DMS precursor and enough to get hops enzymes. Also it's got no risk of infection so anyone worried about cost could do that. However it's not that much in the grand scheme of things.

26mm is the regular size you get on almost any bottle below 750ml (75cl) and some Belgian bottles. 29mm is like large Leffe bottles or champagne style bottles (and some 330ml Belgian style bottles sold in the US I believe). Most likely you'll need 26mm.

Hercule 1) is a lovely shaped bottle 2) great Belgian stout 3) a flip top so most of the time you won't have to worry about CO2 pressure as the gasket will likely burp the excess co2 before any bombs. Also I believe it's a bottle that is designed for reuse so the manufacturers have likely...

Those mangrove jack Belgian yeasts seems to be beasts. Just finished a Belgian blonde with M41 and it went down to 1.002 with 94% AA.

I have they kind of burp the CO² out before exploding. Also I've had a volume/temp issue with swing-tops and the gasket was pushed right out to the side by the expanding liquid. No damage to the bottle or cage.

I would suggest if the manufacturer are based in a country where the bottle commonly returned to breweries then they must have already taken into account the 25%. However I'd be reluctant to test this hypothesis.

I was waiting for my whole batch of dark strong Belgian to blow during the heatwave (Brewed in March). My garage was regularly up to 36C and I already knew they were gushers before this. They were carbed to 3.5 Vol.CO² in Duvel and Westmalle bottles and none to my surprise blew up.

Yes without a cage.

Orval beligan bottle 4.5-5 Vol Co² weighs 354g/330ml. Westmalle Triple 4 Vol.CO², bottle is ~317g/300ml My 750ml Belgian flip without cage weighs 533g. La Chouffe, St Feuillien, Duvel etc all use the same bottles, I've weighed them and range from 281 to 288g. St Bernardus, Gouden Carolus...

Just had a quick look doesn't look they're available anymore. Sorry.

Grain Basket 26cm x 36cm is the only one I can find. I couldn't find one for my cygnet tea urn so I bought one off of eBay and bent the legs.

So I like to buy Grolsch swing tops the 440ml green bottles however green glass is a problem of its own. I agree with you that the price of beer (including the bottles) and price of buying bottle aren't any different. I also agree with the other person who said the variety of bottle i.e...