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I currently use a ~7kW propane burner with a 50 litre SS kettle 40cm diameter. I find this is the right size kettle for final 25 litre brew because it gives enough head room to avooid boil overs. However gas is expensive, at a rough calculation at least twice the cost of electricity for a brew...

I use Southampton Calor Gas centre, from memory it's about £60 deposit on the 6kg cylinder and refils are just over £20. Whilst they offer a good service it's always a bit of a Spanish Inquisition to assure them that I have one of their cylinders, never quite figured out why. They presumably act...

I'd agree with that, it's happened to me too. I found it was a build up of fine hop debris in the pump. I now blow the system out with compressed air after cleaning and haven't had the problem since. Should a blockage occur during cooling the pump could be blown clear.

On a brewery trip round our local Romsey brewery the head brewer spoke about their plate chiller and said that one major advantage was that the wort spends very little time in the region of 30C where certain off flavours can develop very rapidly. He was also very disparaging about home brewing...

Quantum Entanglement ... what a great name for a beer!

True, Time is not a dimension, it's the human experience of a process which is not a constant but whose rate varies depending on gravitational force and speed of motion. There's only one direction of travel. The answer is drink more beer and/or read Carlo Rovelli's books on the topic! :beer1:

So, a good quality low speed cordless drill would appear to be the best solution for me🤞 My advice would be grit your teeth and go for one of the really good makes: DeWalt, Makita, Ryobi etc. The DeWalt one that I have has enough torque on gear 1 to almost break your wrist. You tend to get what...

I use an 18V DeWalt with gearbox set to 1. But it's not a very demanding job for a drill like that. Ikea sell cordless screwdriver/drills for £19 and I reckon would be ok. We used the motors out of these cheap drills for a project and they were supprisingly powerful.

Unfortunately as has been said already I'd agree that you've used less than ideal heating elements which are delivering too much power into a small volume of wort with the consequence that the local temperature around the element is very high. Moving the wort will clearly help i.e. a pump to...

ok, that's great. If you think I might be able to assist any further just ask.

Here's a few thoughts which I hope might be of assistance: From what I've seen the Inkbird looks like a good controller that doesn't require any extra wiring work. I don't have one, I tend to use STC-1000 units or similar which can be bought from the Far East very cheaply but these need boxing...

Ring mains for 13A sockets are generally rated at around 30A but of course each individual socket rated 13A max. So multiple (up to ) 3kW heaters should be ok inside those constraints. The important thing for safety is to ensure that your entire installation is protected by an earth leakage...

[ Draught proofing any gaps and the door will have a much bigger impact than any insulation you may add ... and no don't even think about taking the roof off. Sheds are only temproary buildings & don't last for ever, They tend to rot from the ground up so overall I wouldn't worry too much...

I'll hand it to you those are quite stunningly beautiful labels! On another subject, regarding comments about price of toner or ink, I think it's the same for all home printers but the business model is that the printer is the loss leader and the profit is in the ink or toner. So it's always...

Must confess that I can't be bothered with fancy labels, but this method would work either way. I just use Visio drawing software (one of endless alternatives) & print on a HP OfficeJet Pro using standard paper, 12 to a page. I stick them on with standard builder's PVA watered down 2:1 and apply...

If you want to preserve head hieght between the beams then I'd be inclined to fit insulation to roof with adhesive or just tight fit, then 6mm ply held by a long batten each side screwed to the beam. This would give a neater appearance and hide any small gaps between the ply and the beams. As...

I keep an Excel spreadsheet 'brew log' and I was quite surprised to see that I'm now on my 72nd brew. I started with a Coopers Wherry kit but very quickly went via extract brewing to AG. My brewing history has a slow start in a way. My father brewed kits in the early 70's and made some quite...

It's always difficult to work these things out on the fly during fermentation but in this situation the quickest fix would be to add some emergency heaters. These could be two or three e.g. 60W incandescent bulbs wired up to the STC1000 and placed in the bottom of the fridge. A brew belt heater...

Have never done this but do a fair bit of metal working and plumbing. First of all I'd say the burrs won't cause a problem so deburring is not essential. Also copper has quite powerful antibacterial properties so bacterial growth seems unlikely and finally it's all cold side anyhow (as someone...

Depends on your beer type but normal cellar temperature is usually taken to be around +12C. I guess a lager would be served cooler say +6C to +9C. But in the winter an outhouse could be much lower than this during a real cold spell perhaps 0C or lower. The Inkbird is a very simple device, it can...