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@jambop You'll find 1.6mm is not going to crush Rye well at all.

That would compute @foxy. Use 66 litres as total volume, treat mash as if it was 34 litres and divide. Sparge treat with acid only. Don't forget to treat 66 litres with Sodium metabisulphite to get rid of chlorine or chloramine.

@foxy I don't understand how 17 litres of mash liquor and half of the 49 for sparge makes 66 litres of water used. I would have thought that the brewing volume is 17 +24.5 ? Hence my question above.

Just clarifying You use 17 litres in the mash, Half of 49 litres for sparging ( lets say 25 litres) that makes 42 litres, but what do you use the remaining 24 litres of your 49 litres for?

If i'm using any non husked grain, roasted, wheat etc I put this through the mill last as there is no point conditioning that useful way to do it as well if you are only adding the dark roast grains late in the mash.

I think we are all waiting to hear a bit more info from @Skindar . Get the beer temp stable, aim your pressure for the keg for your desired vols. Give it time to stabilise. Whilst waiting use the calculator linked above and all should be fine without needing to fiddle with a flow control tap...

Suggest you use this beer line calculator, note, temp, pressure of beer, FG and line length are all variables You must have stable pressure in the beer, letting pressure off, forcing it up makes it impossible to get consistent pours. I don't use the flow control taps but do set my beer line...

2% by weight for me, only the grains with husks. So not roasted grains or wheat or flaked grains. Spray a bit of the water, mix and then spray again. No problem for my mill or crush with this.

CO2 equilibrium is a function of Temperature and pressure. 4 PSI at 28 C has vols of CO2 in solution of 0.74. This is actually almost the same as the beer at 20 C and atmospheric. So perhaps no more CO2 in solution than the ferment if at 20C. However the higher pressure is the factor that...

Watching this brewery thread from afar. A lot of the enzymes do enter the liquid wort, so if the wort near the element is hotter than planned target or top of grain bed you'll find a difference in enzyme performance. Ideally a highly liquid churning mash with even temperature throughout would...

Does depend on your yeast really. Kveik would be perhaps cold at 28 and can be fruity which is a feature. Given your aimed temp of 20 C I'm suspecting a more conventional yeast. Could up the pressure to 15 psi and that might reduce the ester load, but most are made in the early part of ferment...

Right, I took the bag out of the Key Keg and then just fit the Key Keg connector on the top part. I didn't feel that I could reliably clean the bag.

They look very robust, no bag in them? The issue is making sure that you can clean them out well and if they have a proprietary closure specific to the dispenser making a wash in and washout for the keg is needed. This might require you to hack the device that dispenses to achieve this. But they...

Would suggest you address your queries into this thread. https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/threads/brewzilla-gen-4-advice-and-experiences.103328/page-9#post-1289600

Can you give some info or pictures of these keg types. I've been reusing Key kegs and petainers and some other " one way " kegs for several years.

Stainless steel sinks make great open fermenters. Seem to be cheap as at our local recycling centre. Conveniently they have a drain hole in the bottom.

Harveys they have to Rouse, seen in the video and mentioned.

Anchor steam beer is open fermented in a fermenter about 18 inches deep and takes 200 barrels. A twenty litre ferment in a brew bucket might have a higher surface to volume ratio than this.

I've listened to several podcasts on the craft beer and brewing and they mention acidifying the wort, seems to be that phosphoric acid is the acid of choice for this. I do believe as well from various readings that dry hopping will add some IBU. This occurs because of the heating that occurs to...

I used to just wash out with hose pipe water and then drain it and leave in the sun to dry. Then one day saw bits of flakey residue come out when I plugged it in to recirculate. Since then always flushed out with water then recirculate with hot pbw and then flush and drain well and followed up...