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Also it would be good to know what else was on the circuit, not good if it's in your kitchen and the kettle and toaster are on same ring. Or you are using your water heater on the same circuit. Old wiring is also not so good for tolerance.

I don't think a centrifuge would work for this, Reverse osmosis, vacuum( low pressure ) evaporation or technique works.

Use kettle finings, use clarity ferm in the fermenter. At the end of ferment chill, add auxillary finings wait one day and then use SuperF finings one day later you have bright beer. If you've spunded to target vols as ferment finishes you are transferring bright carbonated ready to drink beer...

I believe " you canna change the laws of physics". I doubt finings would work in zero gravity.

Go for it. With room to throw a few ice packs in to keep the cellar temps.

I think the answer is yes. Earliest reference I can see is 1997, but can't access the link in BYO. But this link has the same tech. https://beerandbrewing.com/diy-beer-engine/

I don't know, quite a fine thread, but seems standard on all of my different engines.

It's got a little spring inside keeps it closed at the end until pulling on the beer handle pressure exceeds the spring and little valve. Trouble is I got the sparkler with one of the beer engines I bought in New Zealand. I don't know where they got it from and haven't seen it on sale in any of...

Interesting, I see they fill with the tap out but the frame supports the bag well enough that it can have the tap rammed back in.

Just wondering given you've done some research on this beer, what yeast and temp profile did you use. Taken on board the Galaxy tip. I've not used it in a beer yet but this looks like a great excuse. Lots about Stone and Wood in the Brewing in Queensland 12 parter on youtube.

Realised your beer would be moving on quickly, but just a warning in case you did decide to use for something longer.

I used to use the plastic water cooler bottles to ferment cider in, admittedly a long slow ferment in the garden shed over the winter, I did find them quite oxygen permeable. Couple of containers left for a really long time I made either acetone ( nail polish remover) or cider vinegar. If only...

I will add that electronic more expensive hydrometers are great, my milwaukee very accurate, checked regularly against hydrometer and calibrated. I do let the wort or beer cool. A lot cheaper than an Anton paar hydrometer. There's a real balance between mash efficiency which should be at least...

Agreed no need to ditch so much beer each " session ". I'm sure @peebee really means exchange any silicone tubing for vinyl, shame no large diameter EVA barrier tube available for this. The rarely spotted non return sparkler has not been found for sale yet. But keep your eyes peeled. The red...

Looks good, you are refilling through the tap? I take the tap off and refill through the opening and then put the bag back in the box. But this approach does require holding throughout. How do you wash the bags and sanitise if you don't disassemble?

Looks good, assume you siphon to avoid any infection risks from the tap? or is it to reduce trub pickup?

Panel beater friend did a great job of refashioning the normally concave portion of my guten 70 lid to make it all convex, works much better with the condenser now. The connect part has quite an aftermarket as a swap into robobrew 3 etc to give PID and app control.

They are single skinned bags, likely to be very gas permeable.

Ahh, I take mine out of the box.

Do a fresh/ wet hop brew with some of them.