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Seem to have finished at 1.014, so essentially spot on what I was after. Cold crashing and will keg at the weekend!

Thanks for that advice. Have started to ramp up.

Am pulling this out of my usual thread because it's a bit more complicated than my usual brews (though not as complicated as other folk's) Basically have a question about the fermenting schedule. Fermenting a Festbier with Wyeast 2633. SG was 1.057. Fermented at 10degC for 10 days, then...

Thornbury, South Glos. Ta

Lol, same here at the moment, but I could in principle pop it elsewhere in the house. Still don't quite understand what is happening chemically in conditioning, hence not being sure if temperature matters

Looks like i should hang tight for a few more weeks. It's currently in the fridge. Any benefit to it being warmer?

I brewed up a weizenbock at the end of November. It fermented quite quickly but I let it sit on the yeast for 2 weeks to completely finish off. It has been in a keg on gas since early December. Early on, the taste was quite harsh, which given it is near 7% and a dark beer kind of made sense...

Yeah, that would be good. Some of the other grains used like sorghum seem to be mich harder to get hold of.

So I opted to just leave it in the FV for a while longer, then crashed it and it is now force carbonating in a keg. Here it is fresh from the fermenter: Colour is what I was aiming at. Taste us as you'd expect at this stage - a bit malty but definitely young and the flavours haven't quite...

But late writing this one up - after the failure of the Weizenbock documented in a different thread, I decided to have another go. I reduced the crush and the grain bill as well by scaling down the batch size. I'm aiming for something caramelly and banana-ish - sort of banoffee like. Recipe...

This worked for me. Two vials of clarityferm and she could drink it with no ill effect. I have had similar success with hefeweizen as well, which had 60% wheat in the grain bills. Hope this helps - it certainly worked here, but people may have different tolerances. I haven't had the beers...

That's very interesting. If I ever build my own kit,this is the kind of thing I would be interested in exploring*, but I don't think I could retrofit this easily onto the GF * mind you right now, I'd settle for a homebrew mash filter and then I can just brew with flour!

Yeah, but it was the first proper failure I've had getting a beer made (the other failure was after packaging) so I suppose it's a valuable lesson. About 13 quid of grain, so not the end of the world What is a bypass tap (don't say a tap that bypasses!) - I'm not sure where such a thing could...

Let us know how it goes!

Presumably there's a limit to how much extra water we can add to the mash before it starts to really affect efficiency? But only because we won't have enough sparge water I think grain bill size was too high for me this time, and the crush was definitely poor Sorry yours also didn't pan out...

Now I've had a cup of tea and a think, I thought I'd write thing one up in case anyone can learn from my mistakes. I had some success recently getting better efficiency on my weissbier by two things a) better pH control and b) changing the grain crush. So I began to make a banoffee weizenbock...

I think this has come out pretty well - just the right balance of flavours, and a good colour- 23 litres of this will go down swiftly. Weizenbock next.....

For a variety of reasons, I abandoned the pumpkin ale and have decided to continue my wheat beer obsession. The slate will be a normal hefe, a weizenbock and a dunkelweizen First up the normal: Fermentables: 3 kg - Wheat Malt Pale 3.9 EBC (55.1%) 1.8 kg - Bohemian Pilsner 4 EBC (33%) 400 g -...

Spoke to Malt Miller. Should definitely be a 13A fuse in the plug for the chiller. Makes sense as it can run 4 FVs

So it was fine until this morning when I went in to the garage and found the fuse had gone again overnight. I've swapped it one more time. I'm wondering if I need to bypass the chiller for cold nights when it is in the garage? My theory is the fuse is blowing when the heater is on in the FV...