Search results

I wouldn't be able to sleep. Just the way I am. Once I've mashed in that ninety minutes is mine. I can get plenty done so the time to me really doesn't matter that much. I'm doing BIAB so I'm not spending time lautering either. Bag comes out, heat goes up.

If I stick to the plan making notes becomes a simple check list.

Once it's brew day it's carved in stone. Up until then anything goes.

One week is not long enough to get full carbonation especially if the were kept somewhere cool. I let mine go already three weeks. I keep them somewhere around 20C. How did you prime your beer? What did you use and how much?

Another option is to add 500g of the brewing sugar and brew it short to maybe twenty liters. This will increase the bitterness some but leave a fuller flavor. Best bet though is to wait for the correct ingredients then make it per the instructions. Then you'll have a solid baseline to decide...

It will be fine. I don't see anything you've done that would have ruined it. Bottle it, give it four weeks or so, and it'll be good. Let us know how it turns out.

I'm in the states. I really try to do all my brewing, volume, weights, temperature, in metric units. It's a struggle sometimes.

I crush pretty fine. My mill is set to about 0.65mm. I also do 12 liter batches. Suits my needs. Doesn't require a huge pot. Can do it stovetop.

If you want to do partial mash do it BIAB (Brew in a bag). No need for a mash tun or lautering. I do all grain for the most part but BIAB takes a good hour off my brew day. Welcome back to the hobby!

They make bottle fillers. Tube that has a little spring valve on the end. You connect it to your siphon hose. Press the valve on the bottom of the bottle and beer flows. When it's level with the top lift the filler to close the valve. When you remove the filler your fluid is at the correct...

Condensation in the bottles isn't a problem at all. It happens. Would probably be less with a smaller airspace. Next time. I clean my bottles a day or two before bottling usually with just a twenty minute soak in the "One-Step" no rinse cleaner/sanitizer I use. Bottling day they get a quick...

One pack should easily be enough. Who makes the pitch rate calculators? The yeast manufacturers? Inquiring minds.......

Would be interesting to put a time lapse camera on those and see what they do. Could just be particulate in the beer. Have you tried one? Lot's of moldy food is consumed in the world, a lot of it made intentionally. I'd give it a try and see how it tastes. I would take a couple of the worst...

I put a Coopers Real Ale kit together yesterday. Per recommendations I ..... Added LDME and sugar to 4 liters of water in a kettle. I dislike dry malt extract. It gets on everything. Heated slowly to ~72C stirring constantly until everything dissolved. Removed from heat and added can contents...

35° 42' 40" N / 78° 36' 51" W

Leave it a week. If you're reading this with a refractometer your reading is incorrect due to the presence of alcohol. You must use a hydrometer or find a correction table on the internet.

Coopers Real Ale kit. Used 500g ldme, 500g sugar, 5g yeast nutrient, kit yeast. First kit I've done in over 20 years. Been doing all grain for 30. This is just an experiment to see how kits have changed. Being able to put 20 liters together in 30 minutes has its attraction though.

Congratulations! Enough time and the whole process becomes kind of automatic. I did a Cooper's Real Ale today and it was a bit of a struggle as I haven't done a kit in over 20 years and I was out of my routine.

Might be a good time to get some grain and try a 10 liter brew-in-a-bag. Everything you need in one little kernel. wink...

I made a cream ale this year and added all the hops (Amarillo) twenty minutes before end of boil. I got it all, bitter, flavor, and some aroma. No need to boil an hour if you put enough in. Takes more to get the same bitterness as an hour boil gives but makes a slightly easier brew day. I read...