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I brewed a Vienna lager 2 weekends ago. A local brewery (Walhalla) made a really awesome one and I became really obsessed with the style. Good choice! I hope to brew a Dubbel and a Japanese Lager before the end of the year.

try bringing the temperature back to fermenting temperatures (did the kit tell give you an optimal temperature range?) and see if you get airlock activity. If not, maybe try pitching some more yeast.

I'm guessing that's the SafAle US-05? That's indeed a good neutral yeast that works great with hoppy beers. With a New England IPA you want to end up with a bit less attenuation than this strain and perhaps a bit more character. I don't think US-05 is an obvious candidate - unless there is...

I was hoping that yeast manufacturers would release their low/no alcoholic strains for homebrewers. An example of such a yeast: SafBrew™ LA‑01. Maybe they will release these in small 11 gram satchets in the future, for now you need to buy them in large bricks. A friend of mine runs a kombucha...

For your (not completely useful) reference I paid 30 euro for 10kg in the Amsterdam region. Thats £25,50 at the current exchange rate.

(I'm aware that this is a professional defect of mine but still I'll chip in some more...) It tells something about the OP to see how he deals with feedback. Instead of welcoming it and trying to find out if there is some validity to the feedback he assumes that the person that gave him...

I am always surprised when people are happily drinking a beer that is obviously infected to my palette. If you are that person I am very jealous; you get to drink and enjoy more beers than I do. maybe take some to the local homebrew group and try to establish if your beer is indeed infected?

You did not post the specific dimensions of the FF or your fridge so it's hard to comment on it fitting or not. I do know that replacing the waterlock with a blow-off tube solution is a good way to reduce height on most fermenters if space is tight. That's what I did when I wanted to fit 2 SS...

As a rule of thumb lowest to highest ABV, but.. I also try to choose my next beer to be complimentary to the last one that I had. My tactics: - If you need a palette cleanser after a hoppy beer go for sour beers (geuze, berliner weisse, gose, krieks and such) - If you need a palette cleanser...

I use yeast nutrient when I expect the yeast can use some extra help: lagers and imperial strength brews. I also use nutrient when the yeast specifcally calls for it; Kveik and Belgian yeasts have a big appetite for FAN. Lastly I use it in ciders to lessen the sulphur creation. I sometimes also...

First: please don't add boiling water when you dry hop! The idea is to get the hop oils out of the hops - adding boiling water will evaporate them. I agree with Hanglow that fading hops are almost certainly oxidation of the beer. There are some moments in the process that are more likely to...

These are the profiles for hoppy beers in Brewfather: I find their water calculator amazing. 1) You input in your source values (allows for diluted water from 2 sources) 2) Select your target profile 3) Click the Auto button 4) get recommended additions for salts You can still tweak the...

3 days should definitely be enough in my experience. I think that you can tell quite easily what kind of bitterness it is by sampling it. Unexpected bitterness from a beer that's only supposed to have 23 IBU can most likely be traced back to a hop stand or dry hop. I think that the baron's...

Pellets in a dry-hop end up in suspension. When you drink a beer with still a lot of hop in suspension it creates a harsh bitterness that also coats the tongue (gets a bit raspy and numb). A beer can have a really low calculated IBU but still taste sharply bitter this way. A good cool...

I found that pilsner malt actually gives me the most versatility for the styles that I like to brew. It allows you to brew everything German (pilsner, helles, Berliner weisse, weizen, Gose, Kölsch) and Belgian (dubbel, tripel, saison, blond) to start with but it also works really well in Pale...

The obvious dry yeast strain would be Lallemand's New England (East coast ale yeast). It's the conan strain that started the whole NEIPA craze. A good liquid yeast candidate is Imperial yeast A38 Juice (Malt Miller). If you want something special I really recommend Imperial yeast A20 Citrus...

Sulphur and poor smells from fermentation sounds like nutrition problems - and Kveik is quite particular to FAN (Free amino nitrogen). Richard Preiss (of Escarpment labs) recommends 180+ ppm of free amino nitrogen when using Kveik. FAN is naturally found in malts, but some malts (pilsner for...

At higher temperatures orange citrus, at lower temperatures it's more neutral. It's a great yeast if you want a quick turnaround NEIPA as the orange citrus flavours fit the style well. I disagree with earlier assesment that it doesn't fit the style (brewed 3 times and turned out excellent).

If I recall correctly they used London Ale III as a house strain. After a few pitches it genetically shifted. This is an isolate done by Lallemand which now offer it as dry yeast. I've never had them side-by-side but Verdant is supposed to be a fruitier version of London Ale III. In any case...

These are golden ages for dry yeast users so you need a good reason to switch in my opinion. I used to brew exclusively with liquid yeast because of the variety in choice. In the last few years the selection of dry yeast has increased so much that most of the advantages of liquid yeast are...