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Jesus, an English company that doesn't charge rip off delivery rates to Northern Scotland. I'm going to start putting more business to these guys for sure.

Yeah fair enough. You should get a good enough seal just with just the hose pushed on to the barb. Providing the hose and barb are sized correctly, you should have to apply gentle heat (boiling water or heat gun) to the line to even get it on the barb. If it slipped on no bother cold, there's...

Bin your barbs. JG fittings for me, never had an issue. Would hazard a guess that most people use these, popular for good reason: https://www.themaltmiller.co.uk/product/keg-disconnect-product-out-thread/ https://www.themaltmiller.co.uk/product/john-guest-14-ffl-female-to-38-line-adapter/...

Not a lot should be happening at all, or am I missing something? Sounds like you're adding the mango for flavour, not as a fermentable. So "nothing happening" is surely a good thing? Freezing puree/pulp is a very popular method. I would personally opt for soaking in alcohol (vodka or the like)...

Liquid yeast is a completely different ball game. Overbuilding trumps washing all day long. Used it personally with great results: http://brulosophy.com/methods/yeast-harvesting/ and http://www.brewunited.com/yeast_calculator.php

For the sake of £2 or £3, I'd rather not. Ultimately, saving a few quid on a small packet of dried yeast may make your all your efforts pointless. I would never make a decision in brewing, regardless on what it was, solely based on whether I could be "bothered" or not...

Jump straight in pal. The difference between kits and AG is night and day.

You just removed the tap handle? Make sure the chrome circled bit (top part) in the photo isn't too tight. If it is, you restrict the amount that the tap can open - resulting in a ***** flow. Loosen it right off and see how it you go. EDIT - I see you're meaning flow control lever, no...

You never told us you cannibalised both taps. "Was struggling messing about with one so I decided to mess around with the other." Think it might be the taps pal...:laugh8:

Even easier, less bits! Without confirming that you have a fully functional component (i.e. a tap) to fault find with, you're flying blind. Might be worth checking your regulator isn't shot.

Simple fault finding. Have everything as it is normally, then: -Disconnect the beer out QD from the keg and then remove the beer line from the tap. -Put your thumb over the end of the beer line and connect the beer out QD back on the keg. -Gently release your thumb and see if beer flows...

"Just nipping out to the garage for 5 hours to make beer doll!" What part of that wouldn't any Mrs like?!:laugh8:

Hey @JonBrew, Put in for an IPA and a Wee Heavy for this today. Planning brewing the Wee Heavy in a couple of weeks time to let it age as long as I can. Would brew it sooner, but stuck at work... What have you got in?

Well done all!

Plenty time to turn round an ace beer.

Plenty time to turn round an ace beer.

Clarity is pretty good. It's not crystal, but I reckon left undisturbed for 10-12 weeks it would be. When I say crystal I mean crystal clear like, I'm fussy with clarity. Always found lagers take the longest to clear, but then I think that's down to the bottom fermenting yeast more than...

100% pilsner malt Saaz hops (60min and 30 min additions) - quantity depending on boil length and desired IBUs. Wyeast 2007 Lactic acid for mash pH adjustment, aiming for 5.25. 4 weeks at 10C, 4 days at 20C, a week at -1C and then keg and lager for as long as humanly possible. The latter step...

Any tap will do, cheaper the better. Just balance the pressure against the beer line for a nice pour. Plenty fancy calculators you can use, but in my experience. Just start off with longer than you need and keep cutting back until the balance between speed of pour and foaming is sound. The...

Genius. I've never heard or read this suggested anywhere else before!