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Thinking about it, that could be calcium oxalate deposits (beer stone). You would need a strong acid to remove that e.g. brick cleaner. (Again, nitrile gloves and eye protection needed!)

Did you use it in hot water and leave to soak? Must be caked on pretty hard! :lol: Caustic soda will work but you need to be pretty confident handling nasty chemicals. Not like these daft russians!!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZCvAjGuwJg :shock:

Oxi is good at breaking up organic matter. If it's really crusty then hot caustic (drain cleaner) does a great job! Be careful though, it's pretty nasty so you need gloves and safety glasses ideally.

There was a thread on this recently: http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=64126 Most people use the laundry products with no problems. You will need to give it a good rinse afterwards though because they all contain soap and other components. Personally, I prefer to use the...

You will be fine, it's only just started fermenting. You did right to boil it up into a syrup first. That should limit any risk of infection. :thumb:

Hi. Are you sure that's the correct recipe? Doesn't look like anywhere near enough LME. That's a huge amount of Black and Chocolate!

It's beers like this and strong Belgian abbey beers that got me into home brewing! Super strong beers are a bit more of a challenge than your usual 5% beers. They need lots of yeast (notice the recipe uses 5 packs!) and plenty of oxygen to attenuate fully otherwise you end up with an overly...

Want one! :thumb:

Yes that's correct, I use it as a cleaner. It's great at dissolving dried on krausen! I would only use it as a no rinse sanitizer if the equipment was already clean.

Thanks Steve. I'll let you know :) And great link!

Thanks Simon. I was thinking the same. If it is a big issue then surely there would be more examples out there and it would be well documented. It was interesting to see that the beers differed in appearance as well. With the higher pH being noticeably more hazy. High pH is known to affect...

5.6pH is acceptable but it is considered that 5.2-5.3 is ideal. It's this experiment that has got me thinking: http://www.hoptomology.com/2013/07/15/the-effect-of-ph-on-hop-character-the-results/ A significant difference for just 0.3 on the pH scale.

Sorry, meant to attach this...

Looks like a pellicle to me. It could be top fermenting yeast but if it is then you've probably moved it to secondary too early. How long was it in primary before you moved it to secondary? And had it reached final gravity (or close to)? What is the gravity currently? I would leave a few...

Sorry, for clarity ... the image on the left is the source water. The right image is the mineral content after salt additions. :grin:

For my next brew I would like to hit the ideal mash pH (5.2-5.3) and compare the difference to my usual output. I'm going to brew Mysterio's SNPA (http://themaltmiller.co.uk/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=74 ) which has become a bit of a goto brew for me. A nice simple hopped pale ale...

Look at it this way... - These kits are sold by Brewdog so I assume that they contain exactly the same ingredients as Brewdog use i.e. the same malt and the same hops grown in their farms in the Yakima Valley. - When you buy hops from some LHBS, you have no idea how old they are or how...

As far as fabric stain removers go then Poundland and Lidls products are a bargain. I just don't trust these laundry products for brewing though. I don't have the lidl/poundland oxiclean product but looking at the ingredients on the market leader 'Vanish': contains >30% oxygen based...

It's exactly the same. I think they're guilty of a touch of mis-selling there. You need 1tsp (5g) per litre. They say you need 25g to clean all your equipment I.e. 5L. And personally I would give it longer than 10 mins soak. Save your money. Buy the raw chemical (sodium percarbonate), fill...

Hi Did you make this beer? How did it turn out and how close to the original? Thinking of having a go at this one :grin: Thanks