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BTW when I read the term "hop burn" I imagined it was the effect you get from dry hopping too early. Apparently the delicate aromatic compound we're trying to get into our finished beer can be destroyed by the heat and activity of fermentation, so it's better to wait until fermentation is...

Bottling early doesn't mean it's ready to drink quicker. It needs time for solids to drop to the bottom and you want this to happen in the FV, not the bottle. US 05 doesn't compact in the bottom of the bottle after secondary fermentation as well as, for instance, Gervin GV12 and you really don't...

Railways are an out dated concept. Where do they exist without subsidies? Also countries with high speed railways have generally found that rather than spreading the business and wealth to the regions, they tend to concentrate it in the bigger city. Why have an office in Leeds if it is only a...

Do you no chill? If so then late hop additions often sit at a highish temperature for a considerable period of time. This isomerises alpha acids, creating bitterness. There are ways around this if it is the case.

I only needed to read this far down the tread and found myself in total agreement. If you had 50g more of Citra, though, you could use them as a dry hop and in 6 weeks be drinking the beer I'm drinking as I type this (more or less!) I could bang on about it's refreshing zestiness or it's...

I'd just brew it but if you were worried that it might be a tad sweeter you could drop the mash temperature by a degree. This would leave less unfermentable sugars and hence less sweetness. Though it would also be a shot in the dark!

Whirlfloc will help your brews to clear much more quickly. You'll be keen to drink your early brews. Personally I'm always keen to taste them after 142 all grains! I'd advise using whirlfloc or Irish moss about 10-15 minutes from the end of your boil. Campden is needed if your water supply...

Carpet is an insulator, ceramic tiles conduct the heat away. The temperature of the ground is significantly lower than room temperature, so it works in my favour. Plus at night the room temp. is likely to drop to 15C or less. This is the north, you know, not the sub tropical southern climes!

The reason that Australian women use the rising inflection is because they are questioning the validity of their own comment. After all seconds later Bruce is bound to be saying "Why, what the bloody hell do you know Sheila?"

"Yeah, no, I agree..." Don't even get me started on people saying "yeah,no..." at the beginning of every response. Listen out for it especially when young people are questioned. You'll end up really, like...erm..p****d off!

I have a ceramic tiled kitchen floor which I use as a heat sink. I've just bottled a pale ale brewed with Gervin GV12 which I'm told is Nottingham. Tasted fabulous in my small sample so it appears to have survived a warm period during fermentation. Lets face it the average 24 hour temperature...

Yes, I suppose I lose a couple of bottles to dry hops but it's well worth it:beer1:

I find that adding hops at 100C adds an unpredictable amount of bitterness. Adding at 80C adds loveliness! I tend to leave to steep for 10 minutes and have found that a 30 minute steep made no discernible difference. Dry hopping is also massively useful if you want to get a big hoppiness. I've...

I can eat locally sourced food as an omnivore. A vegan or vegetarian can't. The energy, mainly from oil, needed to feed veggies is many fold greater. If the world became veggie we'd have to buy all the crops from poor countries and let them all starve, because that's the economic reality.

Worth mentioning again what has been said previously in the thread. Mash at a higher temp. for an overnighter. My early attempts were too dry. I use a 2 or 3 degree C higher strike temp than I would for a 60 minute mash.

Strange and rather aggressive judgement to make. You've never tasted my beer, so have no grounds for your assertion. I brew quicker than many, I'm sure, but that is probably due to my 30 odd years of experience. In that time I've learned to brew beers which at least match the very best beers...

I bet it takes longer to sterilise a bottling bucket, dissolve the sugar and syphon the brew into the bucket than it takes to put half a teaspoon of sugar into each of 42 bottles.

I got my modified BIAB mash on Monday at about 8pm. It took 20 minutes. It had cooled to mid 50s C by 6.30am. I was finished including cooling in 3 hours 15. No chill would have saved half an hour, I suppose.

I overnight mash. 20 minutes or so to get the mash on and you save up to 90 minutes on brewday. I do a mini sparge of my modified BIAB but it doesn't really add to the time. Cooling does take some time but I think it's necessary for IPA styles.

Mash in a 32l stock pot. Line a FV with net curtain to filter grain out. Transfer bulk of wort to stock pot and do a 6l sparge of grain in FV. Boil all in pan on an AGA and cool with a copper coil that I made. Filter hops out with net curtain when I put it in the FV. Less than 30 minutes the...