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Approaching the 150 batches mark I've just about reached the point where my beers are better than almost all bottled pale ales I could buy. There's something about a draught beer that is harder to match, though it could be psychological since you're in a pub when you drink it:beer1:I left my...

I love a bit of Goldings/EKG, my self. We may need a description of your brewing process to help you get hoppier brews. I'm getting the beer I've dreamt of by hopping for 60 minutes for bittering, flavouring at 15 mins and a final dose at flameout, cooled to 80 C. I'm getting so much flavour...

I concur. Boiling the grains will extract tannins, giving the beer an astringent flavour.

Why not steep in warm water for 30 minutes or so? Strain and use the liquor as part of you volume.

I visited the Hawkshead brewery a few years ago. They brew for 7 days, condition for 7 and send it to the pubs. For homebrewers I think you just need to keep the OG down for a quick brew.

Is number 31. "Darren Homebrew" actually Darwen Homebrew? If so they are kit brew only. Interestingly local people call Darwen "Darren".

I buy everything from Leyland Homebrew. Joe and Theresa only open Thurs. Fri and Sat now. I think they've wanted to sell up and retire but so far are hanging on!

Brulosophy did an exbeeriment and said.............only joking, Foxywink...

Oxy should be good enough. Once the wort has alcohol, it is much less sensitive to infection, though not immune! 5l mini kegs are great if you are going to drink the whole thing in one session (you may need help!). If you could inject CO2 that would be fine. Letting air in when the pressure...

I like what you did. Dry hopping, or hops added at "flameout" (maybe an inappropriate term after 3 weeks of fermentation!), add something but those flavours and aromas fade quickly. You need to boil for some time to "fix" the flavours. I've done a lot of experimenting this year and have achieved...

All the calculator does is to add 0.001 to the gravity for every 3 degrees celcius you are over 20 celcius, or take it away if you're under. So if your sample is at 29 degrees and your reading is 1.047 then your corrected gravity will be 1.050. Easier than logging on, I reckon. Beware if your...

Beer isn't tooooo bad. Fortunately it's not something I spend a lot of money on because fortunately........erm...........I brew my own!

If you're privileged enough to live in the north then Booths have a massive range of beers from all over the country. Also they have some Belgians.:beer1::beer1:

The AGA hotplate is flat so I assume you mean the make of pan? I don't know. It is stainless and cost about 50 quid on Ebay.

I use an arithmetic method for BHE. It's (295XWeight of grain)/volume of wort=A. (OG-1)X100,000=B B/A =BHE So A might be around 56. If OG is 1.050, B is 5,000. B/A is then 89.3% Probably very wrong as a figure but as a comparison between every one of my 147 OG brews, it suffices.:beer1:

As long as you use only one system to calculate efficiency you'll have a comparative figure for every brew. Surely that's what we're after, rather than some supposedly accurate figure?

My bottles maybe clear but the space I keep them in is pitch black. Easy.

At the risk of sounding like Delia Smith I use the AGA. The hotplate is exactly the same diameter as my 32l stockpot. I shuffle it to the edge once it's up to temp.

I've read the science but still boil lid on. Some malt my produce DMS precursors but Maris Otter, my base malt of choice, won't. It's not broke so I won't try to fix it.

You do a 60 or even 90 minute boil to get a hot break where proteins will coagulate and can drop out. 30 minutes might not be enough to get this.