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I'm using Nottingham to bottle a saison-esque beer with, because I want it bright if possible. The fermentation yeast is Wyeast 1214 Belgian abbey. The 1214 will all fall out of suspension with a good long cold crash and I'll bottle with the Nottingham. Question is, how many grains go in...

I'll bet it's fine... I think you'd smell any contamination that was acute enough to ruin the taste. I might be wrong! But bottle it and try it in two weeks. 10p says it's awesome.

Krausen. It might ordinarily have flocculated to the bottom but maybe not! Not all yeasts do. What yeast is it? Was it fresh or harvested from a previous brew? What temperature is the fermenter at? Is that temperature constant?

I think that looks ok. Cover it up, stop the air from getting to it, leave it for a full two weeks altogether (primary and secondary) and then see. If you've picked up a contaminant you can normally smell it in my experience... They can really honk! Keep going with it, assume it's all ok...

I'm another vote for the malt miller, fab company

If I ever go pro I'm calling it 'Morningwood Ales'

Yes I put 180g in the boil, I could have got away with less to be honest, it gives beer body and smaller bubbles in the carb, like a hand pull pint. Hard to explain! It can leave a residual sweetness I've read but doesn't with a good dry yeast. It was good beer, but I've never used it since...

Good idea, might be, I freeze them but I do leave them open. They're all pellets and some are BBC, I often part use a packet and put them back in the freezer. But annoyingly nothing I haven't done before! Lots of different hop types too

Yes, the ferm fridge is set to 19C. It has a heat mat for heat, and that's wired to the controller, as is the mains for the fridge. It's a pretty standard setup I've never had an issue with it before.

Im expecting it to smell a bit for through primary and then not smell at all when I bottle. It's currently sulphuric and farty when I open the fermenter after 2 weeks

Sorry there was one I didn't answer, about how long it's in the FV. 2 weeks. I do the whole 2+2+2 thing. Only now it's 2+2+2+4. I don't measure the FG with beers I make often, I just have the full 2 weeks, it's never not worked! That's not to say it won't go wrong one day.

I'm an all grain brewer. I do reuse yeasts, but all of these brews apart from one have been fresh yeasts. I've used Wyeast 1215, Nottingham, and US05. I know the smell can be strong during ferm, I'm well used to it, but this is different. The plastic bucket thing.... I have scrubbed it out...

I'm being driven slightly mad by this. This is the fourth brew that smells like the delightful scent of farts! A few days into fermentation it starts to smell. It doesn't change the taste of the beer, but it certainly makes the beer smell. It fades to almost nothing after a month or more in...

You could use carapils, carahell, torrified oats... There are a few things that improve head retention. I make 5 gallon batches (usually ish) and often add 250g carapils, 80 or 100g of torrefied oats. Those things I put in just for head. Works great! I also make a Hefewiezen that has 50%wheat...

Do you use carapils or anything in your recipes to give a bit more head?

It's the soap in the glass that has a detrimental effect on head and lacing

A bit of pale wheat and 250g of caramalt sorts it for most of my beers. 2 weeks to carb up and then two weeks cold somewhere... It's the latter two weeks that create good head in my experience

I think 5.2 to 5.6, so by the sounds of it you are on target for good pH numbers.

I have recently read a lot on the subject of mash pH. A few of the takeaway comments by those in the know that stick in my mind are: Having the correct mash pH improves stability, reduces hop haze, reduces or does away with chill haze, and can make flavours and characters in the beer withstand...

And the only reason I put it in first is so that it mixes well, I've actually never tried putting in the beer first!