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There's plenty of really good British cask ales around 3.5/3.6% but very little below that, and I think there's an obvious reason for that. I've been reasonably successful at around 3% but 3.5% is better and my suggestion would be to do that.

You could do it a few days apart even. Add the second one into the fermented part. A way to make strong beers and not stress the yeast.

Worth trying kits from different manufacturers I think. Mangrove Jack and Ritchies don't come from Munton's afaik. The MJ ones I've done have been good. Not done a Ritchies afaik but I've just had a Simply Yorkshire Bitter delivered. I do a kit once in a while, but I pimp it with a mini mash and...

Approx 2 weeks warm after bottling to suit the yeast. I crack onecto check its carbinated up. Then cool, when it is.

There's no chance the kit yeast is the same as the brewery yeast.

Congratulations and welcome to the labyrinth. Don't worry about the clouds. They will blow away. I tend to put the last hops in loose at the end of the boil now and leave them in til I transfer to the bucket. Sometimes cool to 80 before adding them. Many people leave them in for 15 to 30...

I think hops is the best idea, personally. Fruity American hops. If you like them. Amarillo, Columbus, Cascade, Simcoe. Those kinds of hops go well in a red ale and transform the flavour.

I'm with NB. Personally I wouldn't use treacle at all but if I did I would be conservative, 2% ish seems sensible. I'd be Focus ing more on DME/ brew enhancer. Your shout though. Steeping some roast grain like dark crystal and roasted barley would make for better results I think. My best...

Anybody made this MYO Premium Lager kit with the yeast supplied? What was the: - Temperature recommended? - Temperature you fermented at? - Resulting beer like? Good/OK/Bad? Lager-like/Not lager-like? Thanks. My kids like lager so I'm looking for a simple fix!

Yes the promotional images suggest a pale beer but if you Google the beer and find images of it made up it's the colour of yours. Trades descriptions!

In an ideal world a 1044 beer woukd be lower than 1026 after 6 days. That's not healthy yeast. But we get away with a lot in brewing. See how it is in a few days time.

Meant zero minutes sorry. End of the boil. The way I see it you want a bittering addition and then either late/end of boil/hop stand, or dry hop, or both. I'd suggest you cool to 80 after the boil and add some hops, and do a dry hop too.

I appreciate that. I put the powerful and dank descriptors in so you would know what it would do. If you bottle out you can use Apollo as a bittering hop in American styles, well suited. And maybe use smaller amounts later, alongside other hops. Look at the Frank As Apollo maybe.

Very marmite. Which is why I said be brave. You'll love it or hate it.

It is nothing like Galaxy.

I always plan for the fermenter.

Something like (as a starting point) ... 19L 1065 60 IBU 5.000 kg Maris Otter Extra Pale 0.200 kg Crystal 100 30.0 g Apollo Pellet (17% Alpha) @ 60 Minutes 30.0 g Apollo Pellet (17% Alpha) @ 0 Minutes (Aroma) 40.0 g Apollo Pellet (17% Alpha) @ 0 Days (Dry Hop)

Not with that OG. I'd do the same. A big hoppy bitter beer. Found this... https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/398335/-3-frank-as-apollo

Yes just the once! But I would again. It's in the ball park of Columbus but danker and heavier. A reminder that hops and cannabis are in the same family. Batches will vary obviously. You made a good choice IMO. Archer is a bit meh and calypso doesn't have much punch, as I remember. But I like...

Bram X good yeah. Be brave and do Apollo - it's a powerful dank American hop and it will take you on a journey and rejig your world view. athumb.. :onechug: