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That's exactly what I do. They have a valve on them that operates with a connector but you can sanitise your hand and just push it in. Just double check the dilution rate as they do vary.

My current one is set at 30psi and temp is around 5c. This seems about right. I don’t leave the gas on all the time but just give it a blast a couple of times a day so took about a week to carbonate fully. Also some of the boxes have different dilution ratios so double check. They also have...

I use the Diet Coke post mix and it works well in a corny but you do have to gas it up more than beer.

The fermentation temp for an ale should be between 18c and 20c (dependent on the yeast). You will need to take some hydrometer readings before you bottle. If it hasn't finished primary fermentation and you bottle then you could have bottle bombs (primary fermentation continues in the bottle)...

I would think so. As long as the line is not in direct light will be fine

FG is final gravity which you should be measuring with a hydrometer.

You need a steady reading over a few days to be sure. But this does assume your FG is in the right ballpark

You would need to take some gravity readings to see if the fermentation has stopped. It may have stalled a bit due to the temp.

What yeast have you used? Where are you measuring the temp? Your temp may be a bit on the low side. As @Clint says it looks like it has lower pressure in the FV

It may be that you are simply putting too much pressure in and the relief valve (band) is doing its job. Although they are called pressure barrels they are not designed to hold much pressure. The best I ever got before something leaked was 10-15psi dependent on the barrel (same make of barrels...

Hi, reading through this is how I see it. You will need the john guest tube to hose 3/8 fitting to connect the box tube to the check valve. You will need to warm the hose to get it over the barb as per the instructions for the box tap. I would replace the old hose from the pump to the check...

Is this a pressure barrel?

Stouts and dark beers can get quite lively during fermentation. I think quite a few people, including me, have had similar.

You need to serve at a very low pressure once carbonated as all your dissolved C02 (fizz) is going into the head.

I think the problem with the Maischfest is that they took a very good boiler/water heater and made a half hearted attempt at turning it into an all in one system. The mash basket certainly looks like an afterthought. Although it will work people, as said above, either have to buy extra parts or...

Great job acheers. I would make sure you have a couple of spare party taps as the plastic pins can sheer off occasionally and then you won't be able to pour the beer. (they do remain closed so no spillage)

I think it was the Beoir yeast that stalled. I use Beoir quite a bit now for my bitters and it doesn’t ferment down very low, usually around 1014 so have to adjust the recipe to avoid an overly sweet beer. Never had a problem with S04.

The problem is the temp sensor is not in the mash bed but only records the temp of the liquid at the bottom. Without a pump to recurved liquid it would struggle to maintain a mash temp properly. But all is not lost. Insulate the outside of the unit (this will also help during the boil) and set...

Got my squirty bottle from a garden centre and still going strong after a couple of years

Ah I should have read the original post fully before replying. I based my not blaming the hops on my 60 litre pot and twin 2400 elements so plenty of space for movement of the sort during heating. A 30 litre pot with two element may well generate enough heat to scorch FWH.