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Well, I have thought about it, and have decided that I will not use or recommend a yeast that has an average attenuation of 67% to be used for Belgian ales. Unless perhaps you were to pitch a second higher attenuating yeast along with it.

Yes. Exactly.

Pfff... I wouldn't... S-33 is still great for Belgians... https://fermentis.com/en/product/safale-s-33/

I get a ton of clove and leathery phenols from my current batch with BE-256. I think the common knowledge regarding BE-256 being POF- is false... in MY experience. T-58, conversely, produces negligible phenols but ample red apple, again, in MY experience.

WLP400 witbier yeast produces pear and pepper like a saison yeast, but only attenuates to 75%. I don't know if that's good enough. If not, you might just want to add extra table sugar and/or do a super long mash overnight to improve the fermentability. However with respect to its flavors, it...

Many say it's a blend of Notty and Windsor, combining the strengths of each. I find S-04 and Notty to be essentially equivalent in practice, but I know there are a ton of S-04 haters. My belief is that S-04 had quality issues until about 3 or 4 years ago then got cleaned up. So for those who...

I don't know for sure. But I have educated guesses based on the assumption that MJ always repacks, then these are the best fits possible (and I believe you've probably seen this a time or two in the past): YEAST MASTER by yours truly This is a possibility to be sure.

Skip the calculators. If you use liquid yeast, use one pack and make a 1 or 2 litre starter, depending on whether it's ale or lager. If you use dry yeast, sprinkle a pack on top and don't worry about it. Simple as that.

Really only good for moonshine.

I think you answered your own question. Your mash pH would have been in a decent range. But then you added phosphoric acid on top of it, which brought pH down a bit more. I am not familiar with Chevalier but that might play a role as well. Maybe both things are contributing, as you'd...

Throw your heat pad in the trash, unless you plan on messing around with kveik yeast at some point in the future. For non-kveik yeasts, you shouldn't need a heat pad at all ever.

I could be wrong, but I'll bet I'm probably not too far off... The BJCP guidelines are basically drafted by one person alone (Gordon Strong), then reviewed by a team of ~10 of his buddies, after which any comments are incorporated by that same person (GS) to his own satisfaction. He's the...

You're in the wine & cider forum, but... You might want to give US-05 or M44 a try. These are not lager yeasts but they have some of the highest attenuation of any dry beer yeast, and with the fermentation half started by a true lager yeast, they probably won't generate very much esters in...

Yeah that's a pretty significant mistake. I understand mistakes can be made and the desire to remain calm and kind, however I would also expect someone who owns a homebrew supply shop to not make multiple significant mistakes like this.

It will turn out fine. 05 is cold tolerant. Actually, more ale yeasts than you would think are tolerant to 14C or even a little lower. It doesn't hurt the yeast, just slooows them waaay down.

It does make it a DMASH beer at that point. In my experience, oats don't actually add any mouthfeel. What you need for mouthfeel is RYE. At least ~15% rye, if not more.

Some old pewter contains lead, which is poisonous. If the pewter is relatively new it is safe. But I'd think twice before using a pewter cup on a regular basis if it is older than say 50 years.

Similar to my previous input... reduced mash time allows for less complete conversion of dextrins to simpler sugars.

*30-minute mash?

It could possibly be from yeast selection or high mash temperature. Windsor / M15 yeast will give you 60% attenuation maximum. And if you mash hot at say 70-72C, you can also keep a lot of unfermentable sugars in there. Do both, and holy moly.