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I had to do some work today, but when I got home I brewed up some Muntons Nut Brown Ale, with 500gms of Dark DME and S04 yeast. In the past I've made it with a kilo of medium DME and had good results but trying it at a lower gravity. Bought dark DME as the shop had run out of medium, but I...

There are excellent Christmas albums by Bob Dylan, James Brown and Sufjan Stevens.. but I will resist the urge to listen to any of them until Christmas!

They certainly make a lot of kits. As far as I'm aware they don't make the Festival or Simply ranges, or the Young's or Bulldog kits.

It is not that 25c is wrong, but in most cases with a standard ale yeast it is preferable to pitch the yeast at the lower end of the spectrum imo, especially as yeast creates its own heat during fermentation so it can rise above this easily. Different yeasts have different tolerances for heat...

My only other hobbies are listening to music and making multiple bank transfers to my teenage kids!

I think this blanket rule of adding 3 to 3.5 litres of boiling water to the fermenter for kits is also bad advice on the part of the companies. Much better to add less, maybe a bit over two litres, and then adjust the temp with boiling water at the end. You wouldn't see a professional brewery...

St Peters kits are made by Muntons, as are the Woodfordes kits. Beer enhancers usually contain at least some malt extract but not always. Coopers 1 is brewing sugar and maltodextrin. A ridiculous product. Just buy DME and if you want to cut it with sugar just buy some sugar (you could even buy...

It used to be common to buy or make boilers that were made out of plastic fermenters - indeed, my first first boiler was. Likewise, you add boiling water to kits in fermenters. Dave Line's books involved putting hot wort into fermenters and waiting until it cooled. If you have a standard plastic...

Welcome! Nice video :cool:

Ah, how funny! Do you ever use the shop in WB?

Ah, ok

I think he means six months after it has been fermented!

Greetings from Whitley Bay! Welcome to the forum!

You can buy beer kits with tons of dry hops if that's your bag, at least in the UK. The only difference it seems is that they add them at the start of the fermentation. It doesn't look very appetising to me, but then I don't like murky beer.

Just watched video and can see it is a bit different to a regular kit, but I can't really see why it would be any improvement over existing kits. It's odd that American homebrewers often use malt extract in brewing but seem to have an aversion to beer kits.

They've also had 'Mr Beer' kits, basically small malt extract kits, for the last 25 years. These seem to be widespread - hardly new!

Finishing at 1020 is still a bit on the high side, even for extract. I would expect the yeast to take it lower than that.

I think this is a simple yeast issue. Complicated explanations, like water etc., don't ring true. It's not complicated to get kits to ferment out in most circumstances. Some of these kits have small packets of yeast that are better suited to fermenting a kilo of sugar + the kit, and it seems he...

No disrespect meant, but are you sure you are reading your hydrometer correctly? I found this tricky the first time I brewed a beer. If you are not sure it's worth doing a bit of googling on it. 1.018 is high as an fg for a one can kit made to 23 litres.

There is no way that the true OG of that kit was 1.036 given the amount of fermentables included. Sometimes kits can read a lower if not fully mixed at the start (not always easy). 3kg of malt extract should get you an OG in the 1.040s. 15 days is quite long nonetheless.