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There is no internal magnet

The stir-bar itself isn’t magnetic - at least mine isn’t. I only use a stir bar as it’s a ferrous metal covered in plastic, which mitigates any potential for corrosion. As @phildo79 mentioned, if you use two magnets the hops won’t drop into your beer when you remove the magnet on the outside as...

You’re very kind @NPi ! It’s very easy really - just pop the hops in a hop bag, together with a stir bar, and stick this to the underside of the keg lid with a magnet (the magnet goes on the outside of the lid). When you’re ready to dry hop, just remove the magnet and the hops (which are now...

+1 Drunkula is spot-on. A no-chill cube filled with wort at 70’C will pasteurise everything inside. I keep mine for weeks without any signs of infection. With regard to hoppy beers, I am experimenting with making a basic wort with only bittering additions, and adding my late-hop additions as a...

Just a simple loaf again - I added 20% wholemeal as I have a bag I’m trying to use up. I found it always needs a touch more water (as does any spelt or rye addition over 10%) than my regular recipe, but the hydration on this loaf was still only 78% so quite manageable.

When I used to bottle I picked up a few different rolls of washi tape, and used a different colour for each type of beer. It was then simply a case of sticking a strip of tape to my brew fridge and writing on it what it was - a bit like @AnimatedGIF’a lovely bottle cap display. The nice thing...

I think as long as the tamper fits your basket, most of the difference comes down to aesthetics. There are some swanky ones which have a levelling function, but they can be eye-wateringly expensive. One of my mates has this one, but it’s $119 before shipping to the UK...

Amazing - congratulations! The thing that made the biggest difference to my coffee once I’d got my machine was getting a decent scale like this one: https://coffeehit.co.uk/products/brewista-smart-espresso-scale-v2-2kg-0-1g Anything that’s accurate will do, but knowing both how much coffee...

Hmm. That’s weird! I’ve used them before and have never had this problem. Is the silicone tubing getting stuck on the side of the keg? I currently use the CaskWidge floats as they have an integrated filter, which I like. They do have a natural curve to the tubing though, so you have to make sure...

As long as you like! What volume of CO2 are you aiming for? I use a temp/pressure chart to make sure an end up with the correct level of carbonation once I‘m at serving temperature.

I tend to let the beer finish up at room temperature, so as long as it is at 30psi when it’s don’t this should translate to around 10-12psi when at serving temperature

Hey Holmes, I use 10L cornys but spund, so have never actually force carbonated. I aim for 30psi at room temp and chill down to serving, which gives me around 2.4units of dissolved CO2. Did you have a specific question about kegging you needed answering?

14L APA Total = 14927

I’m not sure whether they have the part you need, but I have bought all of my pneumatic fittings from here and they are excellent. Fast, cheap & free shipping https://www.pneumaticsdirect.co.uk/sections/section-9-adaptors-fittings I’m sure they would be able to help if you flicked them an email.

True. There are ways of mitigating oxidation risk when adding dry hops though if that’s the issue. I use a hop bag stuck to the underside of the lid with magnets, positioned before transferring wort. This means the hops are fully purged of oxygen using the CO2 naturally produced during...

That makes sense, although the hops are going to absorb wort at some point regardless. Whether it’s in your kettle or your FV, I would imagine the volume lost to trub is going to be the same.

What are you trying to achieve? Are the hops causing a specific problem? I don’t tend to worry about them in the FV, instead filtering them out using a floating dip tube when transferring to a serving vessel.

This looks really interesting. How does it allow you to do low volume brews without the micro pipe work?

Ha! Thanks @Edison! I’m sure my skills aren’t any better than yours, I’ve probably just had more practice. My flat whites definitely didn’t start out looking like that, they looked more like a bad **** & balls most of the time...

I know the feeling - it’s difficult when there are so many options. If you’re after the best quality grinder for the least money, I would always recommend a hand grinder. As you’re not paying for the motor, transformer, electronics etc etc you’re spending the majority of your budget on the most...