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If you really want to aid head retention then do a 20 minute rest at 72C to finish your mash.

I found El Dorado very underwhelming when I used it in a single hop beer.

Sounds like it's a problem that has already been solved then!

I tend to chill the last few degrees to pitching temperature in my GF30 using the glycol chiller. I've found that when it gets down to pitching temperature according to the GF30 the iSpindel at the top of the wort will read quite few degrees higher (e.g. 14C on the GF30, 20C on the iSpindel)...

I agree that there needs to be a rethink about this. Brake lights should be turned on automatically when you're decelerating quickly. One thing this has got me wondering - I know that at least some EVs you can adjust the regen when lifting off the throttle. Fully on and you can basically drive...

I'm not sure either. To be honest I wouldn't worry about it too much and just dry hop whenever you are best able to dry hop and avoid oxygen. I made up my own clone of Steady Rolling Man that had a very similar grain bill and the same combination of hops, but unlike that recipe I didn't add...

Taking CO2 cylinders from supplier to supplier seems to be problematic. I 'bought' a CO2 cylinder from a supplier, but nobody else will do a swap for it, they all say you have to 'buy' or make a (probably non-refundable) deposit for one of their cylinders. On the other hand I have a gaslight...

Yes, the lack of repair skills out there is the other problem, but again that will go away. I'd expect the mass car market shifting to using LFP batteries will help too as they are cheaper and less explodey but will also limit cars to something similar to your average family ICE car. I think...

The other problem with many EVs affecting insurance premiums, and particularly Tesla, is the high rate of insurance write offs due to the way the cars are being manufactured. Tesla has pioneered 'gigacasting' of the chassis, where instead of welding/bolting together dozens to hundreds of pieces...

Is this still available, and would you take an offer?

Assuming the beer is carbonated then enough CO2 should come out to avoid oxidation, but it is a risk. I've managed to remove sulphur by bubbling CO2 through a carbonation stone dropped into the bottom of the keg and taking the lid off. But the beer always tasted odd and I ended up chucking it...

It was probably an unhappy fermentation - when stressed even clean yeasts like US-05 can produce some sulphur. Alternatively an over abundance of sulphate in the water or over enthusiasm with gypsum/DWB salts can cause this to a lesser amount. One time I had this in a keg was because I added...

I stopped using the one way valves on my system because they sounded like trumpets! I put one in place if I'm doing something like attaching gas to the liquid side of a keg to try and unblock a poppet/dip tube. 5/16" is fine to use, it's just that in the UK pubs and bars generally use 3/8" so...

That would work. The one negative in that setup is that to shut gas off to individual kegs you either have to adjust the regulator to zero, or remove the disconnect from the keg. To minimise the damage caused by unexpected leaks (of gas or beer) I tend to shut everything off when not pouring, or...

Trying to get an understanding of what you're trying to achieve here. I think you want: 1. More flexible gas/beer line 2. Each keg to have its own regulator 3. Each keg to have its own shut off via a manifold Is that right? Just to tackle your first item, I see you mentioned "silicone 3/8th...

WB06 is more of a wit yeast than a hefeweizen yeast. Much less expressive.

Unless your yeast is full of hops from a dry hop, rinsing it with water is really unnecessary and just as likely to cause a problem as it is to solve any. If you need to dry hop a beer that you're going to reuse the yeast from, it's better to either use a hop bag or transfer the beer before dry...

Not in my experience.

When you pour a really oxidised beer you’ll often see through the pour itself a grey/purple tinge in the normal straw/yellow/orange you’d expect of a beer. In the glass the colour of the beer will look dulled and slightly grey. It’s really difficult to capture in a photo though - here’s a...

A grey colour always suggests oxidation to me, but the sourness sounds more like infection. I'd leave it a week and see if it improves. If not then the drain calls.