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@David Woods Did you bottle direct from the fermenter or a bottling bucket? Did you fill the PET bottles first, then fill the glass bottles? Did you bottle from a tap or via a syphon?

I should also point out that the Sui Generis Brewing blog is run by a yeast microbiologist. There are other posts on the site explaining how he runs a yeast bank for his homebrew club.

I have started freezing yeast this year following the instructions here:- https://suigenerisbrewing.com/?s=freezing and here https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/freezing-yeast.678455/ I use the 15ml centrifuge tubes. Two yeasts banked and the third in a starter now.

PS Almost forgot, I am well chuffed with the grain.

Gobaloon thanks again and having met you I can say what a very nice person you are.athumb..:D ARNWD.

Understand about the hops. Not a problem. Will see you Saturday. And many thanks.

If your brewing one kit after the other and as Munton`s use the same yeast across the range then you could pitch both sachets from both kits in the first gyle you do then repitch Some of the slurry (about 150 mls) from that into the second brew.

Hi Gobaloon, I'm in Leeds so would be interested in free grain (and hop plants). Cheers ARNWD.

Hi Gobaloon, I'm in Leeds so would be interested in some plants about six would be fine. Cheers.

I have two 25 liter Klarstein fermenter's. Total volume is about 31 liters to the brim. They work fine. The markings are 1 liter higher than the filled volume, ie to fill to 25 liters requires 26 liters of wort. This is because there is 1 liter below the tap but I just tip forward to get any...

Like I said it's yeast and beer. Whilst fermention can produce a light coloured yeast sediment, after packaging the yeast is put under pressure and in my experience always takes on a dark colour. Even clarifying a beer without pasteurisation or filtration there will always be some yeast that...

Do you normally force carbonate? I use pressure barrels - nine of them and that looks like the dregs from every single brew I have done in the past 15-16 years. It's yeast and beer.

Peebee, What about adding a known amount of calcium to the sample and then testing?

So has mine. It's the socket ON THE KETTLE. I plug the lead into the back of the kettle, the UK plug goes into the wall. Has the brewzilla a permantly attached lead?

Check the kettle lead socket for the fuse. I have a different make/model and my fuse is in the socket but in the back not in the front as shown here.

Just for the record... Yes I bought from them before, made a visit over a year ago now. The premises was packed to the rafters with stock so yes definitely legitimate.

As I understand it the residue is table salt. Re-treat with oxy will put the residue back into solution, then rinse as normal.

Please don't take it personaly, I was being facetious. Anyone mentioned finings yet? Both copper and post fermentation.

Cheers, @RoomWithABrew. I hope though you have not misunderstood. The O ring size I have quoted is to put an O ring inside the newer black cap. The white caps take a smaller sized O ring that is held in place by clips. Later, I will post a picture of what I have done with the black caps.

As I woke up at 3:00am and can not get back to sleep..... The cap valve is is of the piercing pin type for the 8g & 16g bulbs. It is possible that if you remove the O ring visible in your first picture inside the top of the valve that the piercing pin can be removed. Replace the o ring...