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My setup

Yes it would do step mashes. It heats relatively quickly (depends on the power of the stick you have). I have an induction hob so can heat without concern of burning anything (wire etc) at the same time. Would be more difficult with gas. If I didn't have an induction hob, i may also consider an...

Yes it recirculates. I have an ANOVA one (they're under £100 nowadays I think) which keeps my insulated 30l pot (camping mat) within a degree. I give it an occasional stir. You would need to use a bag for your grain (brew in a bag). I've used mine for 100 + brews and works for me.

I use a "sous vide" stick to get up to temperature (with the hob on as well) and to regulate the mash temperature (it recirculates and heats when necessary). Not a particularly common setup, but a relatively cheap alternative if you don't want to massively alter your current setup.

I would definitely take a manual reading. Ispindel readings can be off as things get stuck to them during fermentation.

Lager yeast is known for a sulphur smell. Can't see any difference between this smell coming from the starter or main fermentation so I would carry on.

I've also had this problem with a silicone dip tube on a 5l kegland minikeg. The silicone tube is meant to sink so it can be stored and served on its side. I've tried the keg upright and no issues. But I need it on the side for space reasons in the fridge. The pour keeps getting stuck because...

Once I had got rid of the stuff with starsan on a toothbrush, I seem to no longer have an issue if I passivate everything with citric acid once a year or so.

I also had exactly this on the cooling coils in my SS Brewtech fermenter. I found soaking in a citric acid solution helped. However, starsan (undiluted) on a toothbrush, applied and left on for an hour and then scrubbed off worked best for me. I can't say what it was exactly - I had assumed...

I understood that you can do a closed transfer if you purge the keg with co2, vent so no pressure but only co2 in the keg and then use gravity and then connect the fermenter to the liquid out. At the same time, connect the gas in to the top of the fermenter (instead of the airlock). This should...

I think the OP is suggesting they want to carbonate the bottles, not "condition" them. Assuming they're in the UK and the weather is averaging 0c-10c at the moment, it'll need to be somewhere warmer to get any fizz into the bottles for an ale yeast.

It will probably be ok but personally I would try to avoid it. Ideally you want the bottles carbonating straight away to prevent any possible oxygen from the transfer affecting the beer. It would likely be fine though - it's sort of like lagering a beer before carbinating. You could get a bit of...

As pictured, have one gas and one liquid out 8mm ball locks and some elbows. Managed to order the wrong thing (again) due to my apparent inability to understand the sizings properly. £5 + postage

I guess everyone has their own prefences - for me a 25 mile drive to get water and carry it up the stairs is not for me. I would prefer to just leave the RO unit on for a few hours whilst I do something else the night before a brew day. Sounds like a good way to get a large volume of water...

You can buy a reverse osmosis system for under £40. I only use it for lagers now (mix with my tap water). Easy to install into a hose tap with no work needed or you may have an existing washing machine type fitting that would work. Alternatively you can plumb in if needed.

Yep, same here. I have 2g satchets for small bottles and 3g for large. Need less for lower carbonation beers so use a spoon for that.

I'm sure everyone one will have their own opinion on this. I went full circle from individually priming each bottle to batch priming and then back to individually priming. I prefer this as it's one less large bucket in my limited space and less taps and buckets to clean before and after. I also...

Ok, sorry - think I may have got it working finally! Since I opened the top and cleared the dip tube it seems to be working. I can only assume there must have been a blockage. It's still very loud when pouring. Is this related to the check valve possibly?

Also, even if the beer were not carbonated yet, shouldn't the gas push beer out? Does it sound like it's blocked?

Image of the type of keg