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I couldn't resist putting this link here... check it out :D ! http://www.whitehouse.gov/blog/2012/09/01/ale-chief-white-house-beer-recipe

Now we know who the scuba divers of this forum are!... Now there's an idea: A home brewing competition combined with a scuba diving holiday. That sounds lovely :hmm: ...

My second brew started on Sunday. And everything has seemed to gone well until today. I keep the FV in my log cabin as I don't fancy discovering if my cat would like to use it as a warm place to sit on or to use as a plastic scratching post. The only problem with the log cabin is temperature...

I guess the three major things you want out of the keg are: 1. It seals well. 2. It dispenses well. 3. No leeched out flavours from degraded plastic. To test, fill your keg with water not to the top but to where you'd normally fill a brew. Give it a hit of CO2. Now the pressure inside will be...

I sooo want to be at this meet next year. Looked at details for this year's meet a little while ago and realised I was already coming up to Shipley... but only on the following weekend :( . Oh well, I'll have to make it next year instead... besides, by which point I'll have a few BIABs behind...

I like your bottle filler you attach to the spigot? I take it that it's a valve at the bottom of the tubing which has to touch the bottom of the bottle in order to open and allow beer to flow into the bottle? Where do you get that part? I've kegged but never bottled, hence this question.

Does anybody holding wort after the mash overnight @ 66oC have issues which are consistent with those described above? I'm hoping that if I wrap up my 33L pot in a duvet it may drop a bit below 65oC but not by too much....

I've been wondering about this issue too. I do have a bit more money though and want to make something like this. Sorry Malt Miller, but I want to make it myself. However, I'm not a plumber by trade and I want to know what the part is that splits what looks like a 22mm diameter tube into two...

I reckon I could guess why. Chemicals which are concentrated or not dissolved in water, if they do dissolve in water, in most cases will release a lot of heat on dissolution in water. Water is good at dissipating that heat, and so it's effective to add chemical to water without the water...

Responses noted. Thanks guys! I can believe that. I often wondered that if you started with a small amount of water (to account for a sparge later) you wouldn't extract as much sugar as you could otherwise. After the mash has converted the starch to sugars, think of the grain as just a...

I've been following threads like this for a little while now, as I intend to put my shiny new 33L stockpot to good use in BIAB brewing. If we found ourselves needing to reduce volumes from one brew to the next, do we really want to take the reduction from the sparge? Which would affect the...

I'd put into perspective how much CO2 a human produces while sleeping... The average human expires at 6L/min with 4% of that exhaled air being CO2 (16% O2, 80% N2). That means we exhale 240ml/min of CO2. A lot more than a fermentation I would guess... So if there is a danger of CO2...

I'm not so sure it's a yeast problem. This is me speaking as a chemist, not a brewer. Your fermentation temperature sounds fine. I think you've allowed a bit too much oxidation in your keg. 'Banana oil' as I know it, isoamyl acetate, is a chemical I've synthesised at university - smells...

Hello BrewBilly, I've just started this hobby as well and I can confidently say I'm grateful I started with a hopped malt extract starter kit. Do I want go AG in the future? Of course I do! Like you, I want to say that this is my beer and I chose the flavours for it. But starter kits...

I haven't done an AG yet but I've done a little bit of reading up in preparation for some in the future.. The thing that springs to my mind straight away is water profile. Pilsen's water is quite low in ions. Check this webpage from John Palmer's book How to Brew. However, maybe somebody...

Furthermore to the comments about extra rinsing after sanitising, if the sanitiser is chlorine based I'll rinse it all out then add a Campden tablet (sodium metabisulphite) for every 25L of warm water and leave it for 20-30 minutes before draining and rinsing again. Campden tablets take out all...

I had the same problem with my first brew about a month ago. Is it one of those Youngs kegs? I actually just left mine alone as the leak was very very slow. As the keg pressurised, it actually made the seal seal better! You might be just as lucky.....

I have an answer thanks to a book I got for Christmas: Firstly, the osmotic pressure on the yeast at high sugar levels means the yeast struggles to metabolise any nutrients available. Secondly, towards the end of fermentation, the osmotic pressure has changed a lot and also alcohol toxicity...

Interesting :hmm: . I would guess some strains of yeast would struggle if the ABV managed to reach 8 or 9% but I never thought about yeast finding it hard in an initial high gravity... What could that be down to exactly? Osmosis being slow causing the yeast to hydrate themselves too slowly...

So it's well over a month now since I started conditioning my Nog in the keg. Some friends and I have tried a couple of pints in time for Christmas and it's gone down pretty well! No bacterial propagation as feared! I was worried about the keg itself at first as there was a very slight leak...