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https://www.hopandgrape.co.uk/beer/beer-equipment/kegs-and-barrels/cornelius-draught-system/cornelius-lid.html

Your keg lid is fine, the problem is the valve that you have is not designed to be used with the co2 bulb cartridges like you are trying to do. You could get this to adapt your current valve: https://www.hopandgrape.co.uk/beer/beer ... brass.html Or you can buy a new valve to use with the co2...

http://www.innhousebrewery.co.uk/c5688/ ... nders.html Can get them here mate

No problemo. Usually a couple of inches from the top works fine. You might even find you don't need the heating belt tbh. Fermentation itself creates quite a bit of heat. Depends on the normal temp in your kitchen but you could experiment next time and not use it.

The heating belts whilst good are irritating that they cannot be thermostatically controlled unless you link it to the STC as said. But the higher up the FV you position the belt, the less heat it transfers to your brew, the lower down the opposite. In my opinion 26 degrees is too hot though, yes.

Definitely quicker and I would recommend, but also not a necessity. I think if you are just starting out you would be better saving your cash and investing in your next brew rather than buying more kit. If you get addicted to it (like the rest of us) and are finding bottling is taking forever...

https://www.hopandgrape.co.uk/ They let you specify any amount you want. They sometimes charge a small surcharge if the amount is tiny but still very reasonable and give great service.

With these kind of kits they have been designed to be brewed in a wider temperature range than would normally be done making a commercial pilsner. Therefore you don't need to necessarily ferment at a lower temperature (eg below 16 degrees) but if you did then it would more than likely make a...

Give them a shake, try and get as much sugar as possible into suspension. Will help your carbonation. Try and keep the bottles at least room temp for the time being whilst waiting for them to carbonate.

Trying phoning Brewstore in Edinburgh, they might be able to point you in the right direction.

Just bought another corny keg (its addictive) and it came with two quick ball lock disconnects. Both of the disconnects have barbs for beer line. On my other keg I use JG push fittings and was just wondering about peoples experiences with the barbs? Is it necessary to secure the line to the barb...

If you're looking for something fruity I would recommend the On the Rocks - Mixed Berry Cider. I've made that and it turned out great. Alternatively the Samsons Cider kit is good too. As a general tip though, I wouldn't expect to be too impressed with anything from Wilko's. Spend a little extra...

1. Theoretically yes but you will definitely disturb the sediment even if you only lightly stir but its kind of unavoidable seeing as you only have 1 FV. Your other option would be to get some of the coopers carbonation drops which are easier to prime individual bottles with than tablespoons of...

Red slot supposed to face up yeah, its a kind of sediment trap, although I've just taken mine off completely. Your beer will be fine, don't stress.

Sweet! Cheers mate!

I recently brewed a hefe and used the wlp300 yeast (which you don't need a stir plate for) and it turned out really well.

Sorry I'm being thick here I'm sure, but on that eBay item I take it the co2 attaches on the right and the beer line on the left? In my current set up I have one regulator for the co2 take and another for the corny.

Looking to get my hands on a co2 regulator, preferably pretty cheaply :D . Anyone got one for sale? Thanks

I'd guess it boiled over? If so woops! I normally go for on leading up to boil then off after. Was to know curious what people did.

Thoughts?