No idea but when I'm outside i need to keep the BZ at at least 2040w to keep a boil with the lid off.Each to there own, but instead of an extracton you have to rig up a condenser. I have a boil over proof lid with a simple fan and a bit of 4" hose. Bit like the air on idea.
Don't understand the energy saving tbh. Is that just the effect of having a lid on?
I was wondering about this. I'm amazed that you only got 90ml boil off in an hour. I would have thought you'd still get a decent amount of boil off - but it would go down the drain instead of back into the boiler. Presumably all the condensate drops back into the boiler? Including any DMS. if so, have you noticed any flavour impact?
Apparently not as the steam is pulled out by the condensing head. I did about 15l in a 90 min boil, and yes it is connected to a tap
I assume that is the wrong way round or you have somehow diluted your wort during the boil
Lid off for the mash then fit for the boil (when produce most of the steam)I assume that is the wrong way round or you have somehow diluted your wort during the boil
I do like the look of these for brewing inside during winter so it does raise an interesting point though, if the boil off is so low then recipes would need to be adjusted to add more malt, not a massive issue on cost as malt is fairly cheap but could it then have an impact on recirculation due to a thicker mash? ... And as I was writing that I also had another thought, how do you recirculate? Or do you leave the lid off during the mash?
If you use brewing software I use Brewfather, and do the boil off test that Kee gives you instructions to do in the Kegland video, you just adjust your boil off rate in the software at it does the rest.I assume that is the wrong way round or you have somehow diluted your wort during the boil
I do like the look of these for brewing inside during winter so it does raise an interesting point though, if the boil off is so low then recipes would need to be adjusted to add more malt, not a massive issue on cost as malt is fairly cheap but could it then have an impact on recirculation due to a thicker mash? ... And as I was writing that I also had another thought, how do you recirculate? Or do you leave the lid off during the mash?
You don't, you use less water in the spare
Sorry, still not getting it
less water in the sparge would give you less wort in the end, meaning that you would need to add more water and therefore dilute it so where does the extra gravity come from?
it has been a long day
That sounds more understandable to me, the OP reported only boiling off 90ml though which is where my confusion started
Yeah I get that now, I was having a bit of a moment
So the total pre boil volume takes into account boil off rate so 15l mash plus 15l sparge would give you roughly 28l to boil taking 2l out for grain absorption. 4lph boil off open gives me 24l.Sorry, still not getting it
