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Frisp

Frisps 2 Firkin Brewery
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As per a previous post I have been banished to the Greenhouse by SWMBO.

So from I bought a BZ4 Steam Condenser and lid with a sight port in the lid, I thought it would let me see what was happening during the boil.

Anyhow I did a couple of 10L test boils with water today. to see how it performs.. All I can say is flippin eck this thing is a gamechanger.. !

I set the boiler up to use the built in sensor not the rapt temp probe

First run through I was messing with boil temps and heater power and I worked out it needs a target temp of 103C and heater power set at 45% (1080w). this gives a continuous very vigorous boil showing as 102C on the boiler bottom sensor. I could, if I choose, have a less vigorous boil setting at 40% power. I apreciate these settings may change depenent on the ambient temp out in the greenhouse.

RESULT 900ml / HR boiloff @ 45% power.... and not a single hint of steam on teh greenhouse glass.. what a difference I was losing 5.4L/HR.

Observations-
Bringing it up to the boil from 60C with the condensor in place on was frighteningly fast So Ill have to keep an eye out for boilover when I go live with it.

The 3" triclamp viewing port in the lid in viewing terms is as much use as an ashtray on a mortorkike. You cant see nothin.. However it doees provide easy access for dropping additions into the boil. Although its a bit of a faff getting the triclamp off as its flippin hot. Kegland could be doing with producing a silicone bung to make access easier and safer.

Im also thinking that cold water could be sprayed in the 3" hole to manage the hotbreak and prevent boilovers.

Next task setup my new kegland CF chiller and work out the flowrates I need to drop wort straight to the fermenter
 
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Impressive isn't it.
I opened up the bottom with a couple of bits off of Ali. I got it down to 30 percent power with a really strong rolling boil.
 

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Impressive isn't it.
I opened up the bottom with a couple of bits off of Ali. I got it down to 30 percent power with a really strong rolling boil.
Its deffo a gamechanger . Does opening up the bottom help let you get the power setting down or is there another advantage ?

I see you have the same Idea as me , using the flexi pipe to feed the CF.

How did you get that sight glass to stay clear during the boil? mine just fogs up
 
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As per a previous post I have been banished to the Greenhouse by SWMBO.

So from I bought a BZ4 Steam Condenser and lid with a sight port in the lid, I thought it would let me see what was happening during the boil.

Anyhow I did a couple of 10L test boils with water today. to see how it performs.. All I can say is flippin eck this thing is a gamechanger.. !

I set the boiler up to use the built in sensor not the rapt temp probe

First run through I was messing with boil temps and heater power and I worked out it needs a target temp of 103C and heater power set at 45% (1080w). this gives a continuous very vigorous boil showing as 102C on the boiler bottom sensor. I could, if I choose, have a less vigorous boil setting at 40% power. I apreciate these settings may change depenent on the ambient temp out in the greenhouse.

RESULT 90ml / HR boiloff @ 45% power.... and not a single hint of steam on teh greenhouse glass.. what a difference I was losing 5.4L/HR.

Observations-
Bringing it up to the boil from 60C with the condensor in place on was frighteningly fast So Ill have to keep an eye out for boilover when I go live with it.

The 3" triclamp viewing port in the lid in viewing terms is as much use as an ashtray on a mortorkike. You cant see nothin.. However it doees provide easy access for dropping additions into the boil. Although its a bit of a faff getting the triclamp off as its flippin hot. Kegland could be doing with producing a silicone bung to make access easier and safer.

Im also thinking that cold water could be sprayed in the 3" hole to manage the hotbreak and prevent boilovers.

Next task setup my new kegland CF chiller and work out the flowrates I need to drop wort straight to the fermenter
Apart from all the other obvious reasons for boiling the wort, condensing the wort is another. Is your pre-boil gravity much the same as post-boil as you have very little loss?
 
So when I first tried this with a lager I got a puke from a boil over despite having powered right down

I did a bit of reading and it suggested that this was because the drain is so small. It is very small when you look at the inside of the TC fitting and having something more open would help with flow.

I've only used it twice but this was much more controllable and I was able to dial the power right down.

So I would say yes it works. I got a 2inch to 1.5 inch reducer and then a 90 degree bend
When hopping i also gave up with the glass on the lid, knock the power off and open the very top tc blank on the T. I got a pair of bbq gloves from amazon and this is a lot easier.
 
Apart from all the other obvious reasons for boiling the wort, condensing the wort is another. Is your pre-boil gravity much the same as post-boil as you have very little loss?
You do a test run to measure boil off per hour and adjust accordingly. I use brewfather so just changed the boil off rate. Hit my numbers perfectly on the last brew.
 
I did my second brew with the condenser last week. This time I used a submersible pump to pump cool water from a brew bucket into the condenser sprayer with the drain hose coming back to the bucket. No waste water as I used it for cleaning. I hang the hop spider from the support ring and line up the 3” port. It does get hot but I find it no problem with the thick brew gloves.
 
Its deffo a gamechanger . Does opening up the bottom help let you get the power setting down or is there another advantage ?

I see you have the same Idea as me , using the flexi pipe to feed the CF.

How did you get that sight glass to stay clear during the boil? mine just fogs up
The other thing I forgot to mention is I only used about 15l of water for a 90 min boil which was much less than previously and I could use it for cleaning.
 
Can't get enough visual evidence of why I should spend more money on shiny kit

I wasn't going here, but here we are... The whole concept for me is over engineered and over expensive to achieve the objective.

If we go back to basics the issue to be solved is move the steam. A secondary benefit could also be to prevent boil over. Easily done with a extractor fan.
 
I wasn't going here, but here we are... The whole concept for me is over engineered and over expensive to achieve the objective.

If we go back to basics the issue to be solved is move the steam. A secondary benefit could also be to prevent boil over. Easily done with a extractor fan.
I don't disagree but it means I can brew in the winter in the kitchen without having to jack up additional extractor. Side benefit is that it also uses significantly less energy.
 
I don't disagree but it means I can brew in the winter in the kitchen without having to jack up additional extractor. Side benefit is that it also uses significantly less energy.
Each to there own, but instead of an extracton you have to rig up a condenser. I have a boil over proof lid with a simple fan and a bit of 4" hose. Bit like the air on idea.

Don't understand the energy saving tbh. Is that just the effect of having a lid on? 🤔
 

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