Which spunding valve?

Larse said:

It's very useful for checking keg pressures. While conditioning or in the kegerator.

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Could you educate me the importance of it, please? Because I do not think I will notice a difference in taste of beers carbonated at pressures 2 Bars or 2.25 bars - I would think the one I have is accurate to 0.25 of Atmosphere.
I usually do rapid carbonation of the ready ale - make the keg is cold, put it on a floor, connect to CO2 cilynder and keep rolling for 30 minutes. And I assume the pressure is the same as the pressure CO2 was released from the cilynder
And the other reason I am not worried about the pressure's accuracy is because the pressure drops as I drink beer from the keg, I do not connect CO2 permanently. Suspect I did not evolve my tastes to the same level, I still mainly focus on the alcohol content in my beer, then on taste

Omega said:

Could you educate me the importance of it, please? Because I do not think I will notice a difference in taste of beers carbonated at pressures 2 Bars or 2.25 bars - I would think the one I have is accurate to 0.25 of Atmosphere.
I usually do rapid carbonation of the ready ale - make the keg is cold, put it on a floor, connect to CO2 cilynder and keep rolling for 30 minutes. And I assume the pressure is the same as the pressure CO2 was released from the cilynder
And the other reason I am not worried about the pressure's accuracy is because the pressure drops as I drink beer from the keg, I do not connect CO2 permanently

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So you're not using a spunding valve to achieve your carbonation, so the accuracy is irrelevant to you.
I regularly use spunding to achieve the specific volume of CO2 during the latter stages of fermentation for the style of beer I'm brewing.
I've never messed around with force carbonating after fermentation.

Davegase said:

So you're not using a spunding valve to achieve your carbonation, so the accuracy is irrelevant to you.
I regularly use spunding to achieve the specific volume of CO2 during the latter stages of fermentation for the style of beer I'm brewing.
I've never messed around with force carbonating after fermentation.

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That's right - I only use it to see an indication what is the pressure in the fermenter. Once fermentation is finished, I don't use the spanding valve. I have not been brewing for a long time, so perhaps that's why I am still happy with over or undercarbonated drink - I still feel like a wizzard that I manage to make my own alcoholic drink

Omega said:

Could you educate me the importance of it, please? Because I do not think I will notice a difference in taste of beers carbonated at pressures 2 Bars or 2.25 bars - I would think the one I have is accurate to 0.25 of Atmosphere.
I usually do rapid carbonation of the ready ale - make the keg is cold, put it on a floor, connect to CO2 cilynder and keep rolling for 30 minutes. And I assume the pressure is the same as the pressure CO2 was released from the cilynder
And the other reason I am not worried about the pressure's accuracy is because the pressure drops as I drink beer from the keg, I do not connect CO2 permanently. Suspect I did not evolve my tastes to the same level, I still mainly focus on the alcohol content in my beer, then on taste

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Different styles of beer should have different levels of carbonation. Fizzy stout is not a thing.

So if I want 7psi in my stout or ale, I want to be able to measure that accurately. I also need to maintain the correct pressure in my kegerator, so that I don't end up with fobby beer.

Larse said:

It's very useful for checking keg pressures. While conditioning or in the kegerator.

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Surely that's what the low pressure gauge is for?

MashBag said:

Surely that's what the low pressure gauge is for?

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I like something that's not limited in its use.

MashBag said:

Surely that's what the low pressure gauge is for?

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That would apply if you're force carbonating with a CO2 cylinder.
But if you're using the spunding valve and temperature to regulate the CO2 volumes being dissolved into the beer whilst fermenting, then the gauge on the spunding valve is important.

Cor ... what a popular thread! I've got to have something to say in this!

And as you well know, my ideas are always at odds with everyone else!

And ...

I really don't like cheap tacky Kegland stuff!

And ...

Well, I'm not going to pick the "hideous" red thing then?



Wrong!

Hate to admit it, but I'm with everyone else.

Purely based on the technologies on offer. Two, made from brass, are "poppet" types designed not for "spunding" valves, but for emergency, safety purposes. They crack at approximately the right pressure then may, or may not, reseat. That's okay, safety devices are acceptable if they fail safe. And pressure relief valves tend to be good ... doing what they are meant for! The Kegland device is supposed to react to pressure, including reseating correctly afterwards. It uses a diaphragm, bit small, can't be that bad? The diaphragm allows it to react to small changes of pressure. So ... the Kegland device wins for me too.

I still wouldn't use one. You (@MashBag) probably know I use certain regulators as "spunding" valves. Relying on the "relieving" feature found in most regulators, but never LPG regulators, so not "those" regulators. The little "Shako" NR200s work rather well, but they do need a gas cylinder attached to keep a positive back-pressure. I don't know why, but similar "stand-alone" devices (intended for pressure relief) ain't so good.

You can get this off AliExpress for $2.00 (about a pound) the original Blowtie without the handle, adjust with a screwdriver. Get a decent gauge to go with it, or just get the inline regulator which doesn't need a gauge. The one I used was a 6PSI.

foxy said:

You can get this off AliExpress for $2.00 (about a pound) the original Blowtie without the handle, adjust with a screwdriver. Get a decent gauge to go with it, or just get the inline regulator which doesn't need a gauge. The one I used was a 6PSI.
View attachment 105280

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Maybe if I was desperate to save a few pennies and not in a rush. And I don't think it's available in 8 mm (5/16) push fit to the United Kingdom.
But I'm perfectly satisfied with the Blowtie in all its variants.

Davegase said:

Maybe if I was desperate to save a few pennies and not in a rush. And I don't think it's available in 8 mm (5/16) push fit to the United Kingdom.
But I'm perfectly satisfied with the Blowtie in all its variants.

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There are adapters which you can get with them.

I use the blowtie and only had an issue when I managed to get it gunked up by getting beer inside, but even then it was easy enough to dismantle and clean which then made it good as new again

Jiffy176 said:

Found the digital displays didn't like the cold of my brew fridge.

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Interesting, I have been meaning to get one of these for mine but I use mine inside the fridge, has anybody else got experience of using the digital displays inside fridges?

gavp1979 said:

I use the blowtie and only had an issue when I managed to get it gunked up by getting beer inside, but even then it was easy enough to dismantle and clean which then made it good as new again


Interesting, I have been meaning to get one of these for mine but I use mine inside the fridge, has anybody else got experience of using the digital displays inside fridges?

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I just use mine to check the keg pressures in the fridge and spund off any excess if needed. I don't think the battery would like the cold.

LCDs can be a bit iffy at low temperatures.

Sadfield said:

LCDs can be a bit iffy at low temperatures.

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It's far more convenient if you fit spunding valve outside the fridge so you don't even need to open the fridge to adjust it or read it.

Davegase said:

It's far more convenient if you fit spunding valve outside the fridge so you don't even need to open the fridge to adjust it or read it.

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It would just be more to put through the drain hole, I already have the plug for my heatbelt and temperature probe for my inkbird through it. I suppose I could try and fit some 3/16 through and then use adaptors either side, that is similar to my keg fridge where I have 2 lots of 3/16 for co2 and nitro