PVC reinforced tubing Plastic smell removal

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Hacksawbob

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I bought an inch wide tubing to help with the grain run off as I was get grain clogging in the 12mm ID silicone tubing. However the tubing has a dreadful plastic smell. I have tried boiling water , VWP and then metasiiclate/percarbonate but the smell is still there. Any suggestions on how it can be removed?
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You haven't had much help there have you, probably too late for you now but if any body else comes here same as me looking for answers as to why my beer went bad in 3l pet bottles with a pvc dip tube inside which smells awful (same as beer tasted) and gone from clear to white.
Read a few other threads on here mainly blaming chlorine in the water for the chlorophenol but my trouble with that is my beer has been ok in polythene and cony kegs with the same water.

"So, as "a rule of thumb," in any brewing system, it is wise never to let chlorine come into contact with beer at any time and, most of all, to never use chlorine-containing compounds in beer lines because of the overall risk to beer flavour"

Is the c in pvc being chlorine the reason, the beer phenols are reacting with this, seems to say no to PVC pipe which is annoying as i bought the pipe from homebrew shop specially. Also worrying is I use the same pvc pipe in the high level tapped kegs with floats, perhaps not been noticeable as the ratio of immersed pipe to beer is much less ie. same more or less 10" of pipe (not all submerged) but 23L against 3L pipe almost completely submerged.
I don't think you can get PET pipe so going to try polyprop or nylon next, if they go bad then it's stainless some how.
 
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Also, PVC is not usable for temperatures > 50° C. You should use HDPE or silicone tubing.
 
Thanks guys, I got a replacement silicone tube in the end. It was a special order due to the diameter. All seems to be well with no smells now.
 
Shouldn't need repeating? ... Don't use silicon tubing after boil unless contact time is very short. It isn't a magic bullet, it is very, very, (have I said very enough?) porous to many gases ... like "oxygen".
 
The part I had an issue with was for mash, but I get your point. I do have a short section of silicone as a floating diptube in the fermenter but as it's on a sealed environment it should be fine.
 
The part I had an issue with was for mash, but I get your point. I do have a short section of silicone as a floating diptube in the fermenter but as it's on a sealed environment it should be fine.
Good point. I use silicone tube for floating diptubes too (it's flexible!). I should have said "don't use as an air barrier", but, that's getting me confused, don't know 'bout anyone else?
 
Ooo getting one of my heads again..

What? Do you mean immed after boil or anytime after boil?
Okay, "anytime after a boil"? Suppose it could be used as a needlessly "sanitary" means of oxygenating unfermented wort? Don't know what the required recirculating time would be? Don't really know if it would be a waste of time? (But I can guess).

I'd like to say I read it in a book. Probably did? But it was after I recirculated a fermenting beer through a chiller, connecting it up with silicone tubing: The yeast loved it! Growth out-of-control with all that oxygen about, but all the yeast fouled up the recirculation and probably saved the beer. The other thing it taught me: the yeast in the tubes had so much competition, it saw off most of the sugar, then switched means of consuming sugar when it starts running out ... yeast can feed on its own sugar excrement (alcohol) and oxidise into vinegar! Fortunately, the fouled pipes kept that out the beer too. Note: The yeast continues to "ferment" the sugar anaerobically to alcohol despite the excess oxygen as per the "Crabtree Effect". Clever stuff is yeast.

All-in-all, a very practical lesson! But I'd rather read about such things in books before finding it out myself!
 
Righto. I got a feeling there was more to that. Thankyou. I had not considered that. I asked because I bottle with.. Er.. silicone hose.

Should I be nervous?
 

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