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A T

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I decided to fit the elements and ball valves to my nordic pots this evening, i even got a mate to do water boy. I got one ball valve fitted to the mash tun and the cobalt hole saw would cut no more. Then onto the 40mm hole saw, that cut nothing :( Right now i'm working in a small town so my choice of hole saws was limited to one, astra was the make. I know now they're not up to much :oops: So i guess i'll just have to go at it again with the bosh ones :roll:
 
Tips, can't offer many :D

Keep an even and steady speed, not too high.

Apply moderate pressure. You want to see filings from word go near enough. If you don't see any you'll be tempering the steel and it will become harder.

Apply the bit as straight as you can. Once the bit is through you might have to speed the revs up to stop the bit from grabbing...which will break teeth.

Don't give up :lol:
 
steve_flack said:
After using a Q-max cutter on my kettle I can say they make a much better job of hole cutting than holes saws do. They go up to bleeding big sizes.

LIinky

I've seen these Steve but not used them. What are they like on the cylinder radius?
 
Vossy1 said:
Let us know how you get on with them AT ;)

If it doesn't work i can see myself dancing on some nordic pots in the back garden :lol:
For the benefit of anybody reading i know where i went wrong with the holesaw, i drilled at full speed and probably didn't use enough liquid to cool the bit :oops: live and learn eh!
 
Kingfisher said:
I've seen these Steve but not used them. What are they like on the cylinder radius?
I've only used them to cut a 20mm hole for my weldless thermometer and they worked well for that (a very clean hole...just be careful removing the circle of metal from the cutter...it's bloody sharp). I don't know how they'd do with a 40mm hole on a curved pot. You may be better off trying to flatten it a bit first?
 
I've not done 40 but have done 38.5 :)

There is no problem really with the curvature, if anything it makes it easier.

If you are working with thick metal (NO pots don't count) then you need the thrust races, or a very long extension on your allen key
 
steve_flack said:
After using a Q-max cutter on my kettle I can say they make a much better job of hole cutting than holes saws do. They go up to bleeding big sizes.

LIinky

I just cut the holes for all my ball valves and elements using these, they are idiot proof and leave a nice clean hole. :D
Cheers Steve :cool:
 
The Q-max things are great, hurts the palms a bit turning the allen key the last few turns though... much less hassle than a holesaw.
 
mysterio said:
The Q-max things are great, hurts the palms a bit turning the allen key the last few turns though... much less hassle than a holesaw.
:oops:

Well thank you all. The trick with the larger Punches is to get the Ball race, It really makes light work of even quite thick steel (Like on 11 gallon kegs ;) ) another alternative is to get an extension lever for the allen key . . . . only problem with that is that it is possible to apply so much force to the punch that you chip the cutting part of the punch :evil:
 
I have to say I was debating on how I was going to cut 7 x 20mm holes and 3 x 40 mm holes for my 3 stainless steel stockpots and when I came upon the threads re Q-Max cutters - I decided to go with them. Wow! Idiot proof and lovely clean holes..... Thanks Aleman! :clap:
 
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