I know the type you mean. Note that if you’re not using a fan they are designed to be mounted vertically so as to get a natural convection effect (and always with thermal grease or a mounting pad between the SSR and the heat sink)...
Will the push-fit connector give you enough torque to be able to unscrew the S30 Cylinder afterwards?
I don't think I'd personally be brave enough to try refilling a cylinder :-)
Here's an example of where to find the ON state voltage drop in an SSR datasheet.
This is for the following, fairly typical device (RS stock no. 903-2970): a single pole SSR from I-Autoc
The datasheet for it is here: https://docs.rs-online.com/3083/0900766b81457292.pdf
The bit we are looking...
Yes that's right.
You can think of the voltage dropped across the SSR in it's "ON" state as being a pretty-much constant voltage of about 1.5 to 2V (you can find the exact value on the manufacturers datasheet).
So the working temperature your SSR will stabilise to after a while (e.g. during a...
Perhaps I’ve misunderstood, but I think of a “bypass” as a hard, physical conduction path that connects the heating element directly to the mains supply (see below).
The reason you might want to do this is that all SSRs even when manually set to “100%”, have a voltage drop across their...
Don't just blindly crank up the pressure: the correct pressure depends on the temperature of the keg (CO2 dissolves much more easily at lower temps).
Consult a carbonation chart for the correct pressure to use, such as the one here: https://ikegger.eu/pages/how-to-force-carbonate-brew-under-pressure
Hmmm - maybe you could mount a fan on the outside of the box, next to the heatsink, and a few holes on the opposite side of the case so it draws the air all the way through?
@Vinylwasp I think the proper terminology these days is probably "Ferrules" or sometimes I've heard them called 'bootlaces'
Maybe have a look at these... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CNR84K8V ??
Nice work there mate athumb.. great stuff.
Are those spade connectors I see on the side rocker switch there? You might want to solder those instead, if they are taking any current ...
In case it helps, here's a closer look inside one of the TETB power controllers.
First and most importantly, ALL external metalwork (heatsinks, case, control knobs, etc) MUST be properly bonded to earth.
This isn't "elf an safety gorn mad" ... it's just bloody sensible. You're dealing with...